Results 1 to 10 of 15
06-30-2012, 04:36 AM #1
What is the best way to replace the fuel pump?
2001 Silverado Z71...5.3l, 4T65e, auto 4wd...regular cab, stepside...209k miles
My fuel pump started whining on me today. Happened suddenly...no whine yesterday, very distinct whine today. I can only assume this means it is about to fail. Since I rely on my truck, I have to at least be ready to replace it (if not replace it before it leaves me stranded).
So...main question...what is the easiest way to get to it? Move the bed out of the way, or drop the tank? A bit of background might help here. It spent it's early life in Michigan before I moved down here to NC...so it does have it's fair share of rust under there. I didn't have any issues with broken parts when I did the tranny a couple months ago, though. As far as equipment...I have an A-frame with a chain hoist, cherry picker, a plethora of jacks (including a high lift jack and a motorcycle jack), and air tools. I tend to find myself doing these projects without an assistant.
Second question...is there a cheaper way of doing this? The fuel pump and sending unit seem to be sold as a single piece, which makes the price skyrocket. Is there a way to dissect the unit that is in there and just replace the pump with a Walbro 255 (or other non-original pump of an appropriate size)?
Third (and final) question...assuming the answer to question two is "nope", what is the most reliable brand to replace it with? I have found that buying the better parts pays off in the long run. Are there any pumps made in the USA? I can even accept Mexico, Canada, Japan...but please don't make me put Chinese junk in my truck.Everyone should own a Ford once in their life....how else can you truly appreciate a Chevy?
07-25-2012, 04:29 AM #2
Cowspatoot- to answer all of your questions, it is 100 times easier to drop the tank thoe it may not seem like it. I have replaced 6 pumps in 99-04 z71 including 2 on my own and i have yet to find one that atleast 2 of the bed bolts wont come out of so save yourself the time and hastle and drop the tank. Start by disconecting the filler neck and completely remove from truck. The loosten the hanger bolts untill almost all the way out that should give you the room to disconnect the 3 lines, the lines are easy squeeze the white tabs together at the end of each hose and pull you may have to use a small pair of needle nose bc i never can get it with my fingers, just push untill you hear the click to reconnect when finished. Be very carefull not to bend,smash,or jerk the lines as they are hard plastic and being old they will crack. Double check for n e other lines and proceed to dropping the tank. It is possible to dicect the unit but i have found that the pump that autozone carries is the best replacement "expensive" $450 here in LA but it comes with a lifetime warranty and will give you a free replacement if it ever stops. Bring the old unit with you bc there r several diff modles. You will have to do some wiring but the new pump comes with everything you will need just follow the directions. Do in reverse to install and you should be good as new in under an hour if your dicent with a wrench. If you disect the old unit check the pump with a good battery bc i have never herd one whine r sometimes work they simply just shut off with no worning. Hope my advice is helpfull feel free to ask if more info is needed.Super-Z
07-25-2012, 04:36 AM #3
Kevin the same goes to you read my other post carefully. There isnt much diff between the unit in a car r truck just the size.
Last edited by SuperDutyZ5.3; 07-25-2012 at 04:39 AM.
07-26-2012, 08:43 PM #4
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
On a pick up just pull the box.
07-27-2012, 01:52 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
We had to replace the unit in our '97. We brought it to our friend that has a lift and he was able to drop the tank and got it all done in less than an hour.
We bought ours from Rock Auto. I've found the prices are way better than the local stores/dealer if you don't need it right away and can wait a couple of days for shipping it's the best place, imho. Many different brands to choose from too. (heck they're probably all made in the same Chineese factory anyway
Last edited by nancygrl; 07-27-2012 at 01:55 PM.
2011 Camaro SS/RS
1997 Silverado X-cab 4x4
07-27-2012, 01:58 PM #6
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Cameron, NC
- Blog Entries
I haven't seen this discussed yet but BUY QUALITY! Saving a few dollars in the beginning won't make up for the hassle of doing the job over again. Buy a Delphi or AC/Delco unit as a replacement. As far as pulling the bed/dropping the tank, there are those who do it both ways and swear that their way is best. That will have to be up to you. Just know that the bed is heavy and cumbersome. If you have a bunch of buddies or a engine hoist, it might be better to lift the bed. If not, drop the tank."It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.
Check out my image gallery here
"The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)
07-27-2012, 06:54 PM #7
Eff that!! - Pay someone to do it! THAT'S the easiest way!!!LOL. Actually, when I do mine, I'm considering cutting an access hole in the bed. I can fab up a nice, aluminum diamond plate cover for the opening.You're driving is WAY more offensive than my swearing, assjack!!!
07-27-2012, 07:39 PM #8
I tried to post an update, but apparently I forgot to hit the "send" button. I appreciate the input from everyone, but my issue turned out to be much simpler...it was a problem with a lack of voltage caused by a loose wire at the battery. Gotta love the simple fixes.
07-27-2012, 07:55 PM #9
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- San Diego, California, United States
- Blog Entries
thrasher- smart idea. I may have to copy that. Thanks
2000 Silverado, 4.8L, LS
3" Dynomax cat back exhaust
Drop-in K&N air filter
200 amp Nations alternator
KYB GR2 Shocks
Bluetooth OBD2 adapter with Torque App on EVO 4G
Custom Stereo System l Pioneer/ Boss door Speakers l 1200 watt Performance Teknique amp l 1 farad capacitor l 2 12" kicker comp subwoofers
Slider rear window l Locking tailgate, de-baged l 265/75/16 Bridgestone Dueler H/L tires l Fully synthetic oil l Tinted windows
4l65e upgrades - five pinion planetaries l HD sun shell l high performance band
07-27-2012, 10:14 PM #10
By Scott77 in forum How-to GuidesReplies: 14Last Post: 01-13-2013, 11:45 AM
By thrasher in forum Performance & FuelReplies: 2Last Post: 08-19-2011, 11:23 PM
By R Runner in forum Performance & FuelReplies: 5Last Post: 10-05-2010, 10:55 AM
By Scott77 in forum Chevy Tahoe Forum (GMC Yukon, Cadillac Escalade)Replies: 5Last Post: 03-01-2010, 07:12 AM
By berg in forum Performance & FuelReplies: 7Last Post: 02-25-2010, 02:02 PM
Tags for this Thread