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Thread: Vinyl Wrapping GMC logo
07-03-2012, 05:55 PM #1
Vinyl Wrapping GMC logo
I have looked all over the internet and haven't been able to find what I am looking for. I am looking for some vinyl so I can wrap my emblems. That is easy, right? Wrong! I want to get it to match the body color of my truck. Which is Stealth Gray or Blue Granite Metallic. With that being said can anybody help?
07-03-2012, 06:17 PM #2
It'd be hard to color match metallic but last time i was at the graphic shop they showed me a new vinyl that actually uses automotive paint. The guy said you could even wax it. You could check with your local graphic shop to see if they can do a print to color match but I don't think they can print metallic.
07-03-2012, 06:28 PM #3
You can peel it off and do it again but it seems like a pain in the arse to keep paying to do that.
Why dont you just paint them the color of your truck? Seems a better route.
This one I did in Stealth Grey/Blue granite..the name depends on if you drive a Hummer or Silverado!
07-03-2012, 06:29 PM #4
I went to the local sign shop and they didn't have anything that was remotely close. It doesn't have to have metallic in it since it is surrounded by the chrome front end.
07-03-2012, 06:32 PM #5
07-04-2012, 01:01 PM #6
07-04-2012, 02:38 PM #7
Adhesion promoter would best best.....primer is better than nothing though.
I painted mine without primer or adhesion promoter. Back one is holding up nicely, the front one has two rock chips in it though. When I re-do it I will be using primer.
My tailgate handle has primer - paint - clear and it is holding up well.
2012 Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 4.8L 4x4
- Nitto Tera Grapler 265/70R17, Line-X bed liner, Black Bowties, Stampede front deflector, DeeZee black diamond plate bed rails, TonnoPro Lo-roll cover, Antenna deleted, Spyder Projection Headlights with Phillips CrystalVision Ultra bulbs, Spyder Tail Lights & 3rd Brake Light, Rough Country leveling kit, PlastiDip'd emblems, and wheel hubs, Diablosport Trinity, 20% tint, Black OEM grill
"Coming through in a new Chevy, droppin' game like it's too heavy."
07-04-2012, 03:15 PM #8
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I had a vinyl cover on the front emblem of my truck, the second day I had it there it got a rock gouge on my way to to work, nobody else could see the gouge but I knew it was there so I peeled the vinyl off and painted front and rear emblems.
Taping wasnt hard, use good quality masking tape and a sharp hobby/craft knife.
I used a glass scratch polishing sheet to scuff the emblem cause I was worried about leaving swirl marks then cleaned with a tac rag, primed the front with a plastic adhesion promoter/primer and painted Stainless Steel silver (slightly darker than silver as I wanted it to stand out a little), the rear I didnt use adhesion promoter since theres less of a chance of it getting chips and nicks.
Obviously without using the adhesion promoter the rear took less time but it was still only about an hour per emblem, about 2.5 hours total time. I would've worked on both of them at the same time taping/painting while the other was drying but I could only get one end of the truck in the shop at a time the day I did it and I didnt feel like working out in the sun.
07-04-2012, 11:21 PM #9
Ok. So I bit the bullet and pulled the emblem off the front of the truck. I am in the process of laying some paint on it. I hope to have some pics up tomorrow. I would have it finished tonight but I forgot the can of clear at the house. With all this painting I have been doing lately I may invest in a small paint gun. I have an airbrush kit (I have never used it thought, inherited) but that is to small.
07-05-2012, 11:28 PM #10
You can scuff, AP, then paint and clear. Harbor Freight has inexpensive guns and for the price work well. You wont need a large compressor with something that small.
I use Bull Dog as my AP for plastics. You dont need primer if you use AP but you can if you want. Two light coats of AP with 10-15 minutes between coats and your ready to paint. You can leave Bull Dog on over night and then paint if you had to but anything longer than that scuff again and reapply Bull Dog.
You can also scuff, prime, and then paint and not use AP.....
If you do get a spray gun be sure to get a gauge for it. If its a gravity feed(not HVLP) and the max pressure is lets say 60 psi, I generally set to be at 50 PSI with the trigger pulled on the gauge.
My HVLP which is a Devilbliss the max pressure is 30PSI for the gun and I set the pressure at 25psi with the trigger pulled. This is of course the pressure at the gun and not the cap...thats another discussion in its self that I wont bore you with.
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