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  1. #21

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    Nice, reggie. I'm a strong advocate for doing outer and inner door skins because of exactly what you mentioned. I've also got multiple layers in the dash as well as in the center console.

  2. #22

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    Question to you guys. How long did it take to remove the carpeting and headliner. The trim I know is easy because it either snaps in to place or has screws and same with the seats. Obviously on an SUV you would need much more than either of your truck cabs, but I'm really just wondering on the headliner and carpet for different reasons (I need a new head liner and maybe carpet)

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #23
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    Enkeiavalanche's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
    Posts
    5,356

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    Every truck is different. On the Tahoe The headliner after you take off all the handles around the top and lights on the inner roof there might be a little glue up there but you should be able to pull it out through the rear.. As for carpet? Take everything out first about 1-2 hours of work..
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  4. #24

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    Ok, so the head liner isn't too bad. My thing is part of the head liner the fabric is separating from the foam backing. and there are some cuts and damages in it from the previous owner. To be honest it isn't that bad but its separating right at the windshield so I see it every day. I may just use some double sided tape to keep it up for now. I really need to get my leak in the roof fixed but I don't know where its coming from.

  5. #25

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    My interior B-pillar covers had to come off to remove the headliner ... and that meant removing torx bolts (for which I had no tox bits) since my seat belts are anchored to the B-pillar. Thus, I burnt an hour going to buy torx bits. The headliner for my extended cab took a good 20 mins to remove once I had the B-pillar covers off.

    The tricky point that ate most of the time was the twin plastic push plugs that push into the rear of the roof (very technically, into the same roof portion into which the third brake light screws -- it's just the other end of the same metal hollow). I could find no way to get them out (you can't lever against the headliner because you'll crush it), but once I realized they shared the same/similar space as the third brake light I simply removed the third brake light and cut them off from inside the roof (behind the third brake light).

    I DO NOT recommend that others do that. At the time I figured they would be about a buck, each, to replace. Nope. EIGHT bucks, each. How ridiculous is that???

  6. #26

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    Surreal that stinks and I will remember that. I'm lucky that my carpet is in sections rear and front from what I can tell. The seam is under the rear seats I found it while cleaning the truck. My headliner obviously isn't a priority but it will need to be done eventually I may practice with my girlfriend's car because her's is an absolute mess. Its quite literally hanging down and has massive rips and cuts.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    My headliner obviously isn't a priority but it will need to be done eventually I may practice with my girlfriend's car because her's is an absolute mess. Its quite literally hanging down and has massive rips and cuts.
    Are you fixing the headliner or are you sound deadening beneath it? This being a sound-deadening thread I'm presuming the latter. And if that presumption is correct, you should consider sound-deadening the roof a priority because it's a large, resonant metal panel ... and it happens to be very close to your head/ears ... rendering it a significant source of audible noise.

  8. #28

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    Its one of those I'm doing one because i'm already doing the other. Since I'm gonna fix my head liner why not also do the sound deadening since it will have to be removed anyway. I'm assuming this also helps insulate the interior in turns of temperature as well.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    The tricky point that ate most of the time was the twin plastic push plugs that push into the rear of the roof (very technically, into the same roof portion into which the third brake light screws -- it's just the other end of the same metal hollow). I could find no way to get them out (you can't lever against the headliner because you'll crush it), but once I realized they shared the same/similar space as the third brake light I simply removed the third brake light and cut them off from inside the roof (behind the third brake light).
    those were the biggest pain in the arse for me when reattaching my headliner! that took me an hour just to line up because those pins were so crappy!

    for me, including removing my sound system too, it probably took an hour or so to remove everything, its not as quick as you think, but it aint horrible either, but for me, fortunately, i have absolutely NO electronics to worry about , yeah im cool like that...
    other than the air bag sensor under the driver seat, everything is manual on the interior, so mine is really easy.

    and on the headliner, I put about 3 layers of sound deadener, i did NOT want to skimp on that at all, it has a definite THUD when knocking from the roof and i love it!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Nice, reggie. I'm a strong advocate for doing outer and inner door skins because of exactly what you mentioned. I've also got multiple layers in the dash as well as in the center console.
    actually in planning this one out in advance, would you agree that a mass loaded vinyl barrier might be more effective for the door panel and dash panel? or do you stand by the rattletrap in those areas too? Ive got plenty more rattletrap, but just trying to put some physics together and its seeming like adding mass to those plastic pieces might be the way to go... OR possibly both as well

    - - - Updated - - -

    also, surreal, did you leave your moisture barrier in place or remove it?
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  10. #30

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    ive come a long way now guys!

    finally finished my door panels over thanksgiving break, along with the addition of my NEW Alpine SPR-60C component speakers to replace my 12 year old ones that were put in when my older brother had the truck.

    heres my old setup, with the boston component set.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    still could never really find any specs on this set since apparently theyre so old
    Click image for larger version. 

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    moisture barrier still intact
    Click image for larger version. 

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    moisture barrier removed
    Click image for larger version. 

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    rattletrap extreme applied to door skin
    Click image for larger version. 

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    it was really bright outside, but boston(left) alpine(right)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    alpines installed
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and the finished product, with flush mount tweeters installed ( just used a hole saw, where my old tweeters were mounted with two screw holes, for the new hole)
    Click image for larger version. 

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