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  1. #1

    Default cleaning engine bay

    hey guys,
    im just curious as to the best, most effective, techniques/methods there are for completely washing/cleaning out underneath your hood???
    any advice is appreciated, just looking to thoroughly remove as much dirt/grime/crap as possible.
    thanks!
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  2. #2

    Default

    I spray the engine bay with Simple Green let it sit for a few minutes than hose it down. You may need to do it a few times for the first time. But know when I wash the truck I also clean the engine bay. This helps with a few things. If I see a build up of a fluid or something I know there is a leak and it also keeps the engine bay looking clean.





    2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18

  3. #3

    Default

    I do something similar with simple green, then I scrub a little with a soft brush and then I wash it off with a pressure washer.

    Typically I will spray down the engine with the simple green or light degreaser, scrub it, and have the power washer ready, next I jump in and start the engine and then jump back out and hit it with the pressure washer.

    the reason for that is,

    if the engine is not running, you can potentially get it wet enough that it will not start back up if water gets somewhere it should not. The down side is, you have to get the simple green off before the engine gets too hot cause you do not want to crack the engine. ( that is why you start with it off, and then turn it on before hitting it with the water, the engine is cold so the water will not cause the engine block to crack, but the engine heats up quick, so it is a timing thing.

    Disclaimer: I am not an expert and if you drowned your engine by cleaning it and it will not start, or cause any damage of any kind to your engine; I am not liable for what you did.

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm going to go with simple green as well. I've just sprayed it under the hood before washing the truck. When I finish washing I just hose it off. I've done this for quite awhile so you may need a pressure washer depending on the grime thickness.

    2010 OEM 20" Wheels
    Color-matched mirror covers and emblem
    20% tinted windows - 6" eyebrow
    Black rear fender-wells
    Completely debadged and demolded
    Duramax airbox replacement w/ K&N filter
    2" Rear drop shackle
    Tailgate light bar
    Flowmaster Delta 50 w/ double tip exits
    Blue footwell lighting
    12" Pioneer Sub (custom downfire box) 850W amp
    Full LED interior

  5. #5

    Default

    well so far simple green seems like a unanimous winner
    are there any electrical spots to really try to keep the water away from? or is it all fair game for the most part

  6. #6

    Default

    My truck is the same year as yours, but I have the 5.3L engine.

    The last time I did it, I wanted to get as much grime off as possible. We don't have distributor caps on our engines, so almost anything is fair game.

    I tend to be careful around the fuel rails and coil packs to the left and right of the intake manifold and then the spark plugs. I did get too much water around my knock sensors and they were lighting up my dash with error codes for 2 months until they completely dried out (under the intake manifold) so be careful there.

    Also watch the spark plug wires and make sure they are tight around your plugs so water does not get in there.

    I also put the truck on ramps and degreased and power washed the under side of the engine/transmission also, but you can be less careful from the bottom.... any time it rains water splashes around under the truck.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    hey guys,
    im just curious as to the best, most effective, techniques/methods there are for completely washing/cleaning out underneath your hood???
    any advice is appreciated, just looking to thoroughly remove as much dirt/grime/crap as possible.
    thanks!
    I take the vehicle to the car wash and use the Tire-degreaser (it's green usually when it finally comes out the hose) all over the engine. Occasionally, after some serious mudding, I have to wash first. I ALWAYS use the low pressure wash spot free rinse (usually pure water) to clean the engine compartment before (if muddy) and after the degreaser.

    When I spray the degreaser, I do it over EVERYTHING in the engine compartment. I've done this for years, and never had a problem. (It also helps that I use dielectric grease on 100% of my electrical connections, and those I work on. I go through a couple tubes a year.) It has the added value of making the black plastic stuff look great when you're done.

    Once I let the degreaser sit for a while (a couple of minutes) I wash it down with the low-pressure spot free rinse, until it's all washed away. The sole exception to the low pressure wash is when I'm trying to get the bug grime out of the radiator fins. I'll use the standard rinse, but always hold it well away from the fins (to not bend them under the pressure).

    I've done this with both the engine running and off, no problems either way.

    I do this to LOTS of vehicles I work on, as I find the engine compartment's nastiness is a real inhibitor to working on some parts or doing basic maintenance (like spark plug changes). Much easier to work in a clean environment. For 3 bucks and 5-100 minutes, it sure beats hand spraying things down with simple green! Since my shop prices are "free plus the cost of parts," (select clientele, don't bother asking if you can bring it over, it's pretty much a neighborhood and family thing I do as a hobby!), if a compartment is nasty, I require folks to clean it up before I work on it. I typically will just ride with folks over to the car wash (a couple blocks away) the day before we do the work.

    The only thing you have to watch for is getting the degreaser on paint. It WILL strip wax. Typically, I'll clean and throw a coat of wax over anything that gets splashed, afterwards. Easy to do with modern applications. The same should be done for Simple Green overspray as well.

    -Skippy
    2006 Vortec Max 1500
    Performance:
    -Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
    Other:
    -Spray-in Bed Liner
    -Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
    -Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)

  8. #8
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    Default

    White Lightning or Simple Green both work good There is also P-21 Moyorcycle cleaner that works great. As for High Preasure?? I would NOT use that. A light spray (more then a mist) Is all I would do and keep the water away from the Alt and Air cleaner.
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  9. #9

    Default

    When I come off the beach after a day of slinging sand the first car wash I see I stop. I do as Skippy described. I want to get all the sale water and sand off of anything that can be taken care of. I have done this on all my Jeeps as well as my truck. I try to keep my engine bay as clean as I keep my truck. Especially since I have painted the parts that I have. I have never had any kind of issue by doing this. It might not be the best to do but it is how I do it.

  10. #10

    Default

    I just want to jump in here and caution anyone who uses a pressure washer to clean their engine - at least for those of us with the V8s anyway. I always assumed that as long as I kept the pressure away so that nothing was directly blasted, it wouldn't cause any problems. BUT, I rinsed my engine bay with a pressure washer on Thursday, and on Sunday I got a check engine light for a defective knock sensor. My research since then shows that apparently when you get that much water in there, it can sit below the intake manifold and corrode the knock sensors. A lot of the cases of bad knock sensors (P0332 code - only the rear knock sensor ever seems to get water damage) seem to happen a couple of days after the engine bay is washed. Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it doesn't. If my problem doesn't go away once its had a chance to dry, I'll have to replace both knock sensors and the wiring harness because I don't want to have to remove the intake again if the other one fails. The cost in that case would be about $200-$250 plus about 3 hours worth of labor... that adds up to about $500 or more total if you have a shop do it (at least in my area).

    Anyway, after all that, what I'm trying to say is just be sure to wash your engine bay carefully.

    2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE


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