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Thread: cleaning engine bay
08-05-2012, 03:48 PM #1
cleaning engine bay
im just curious as to the best, most effective, techniques/methods there are for completely washing/cleaning out underneath your hood???
any advice is appreciated, just looking to thoroughly remove as much dirt/grime/crap as possible.
thanks!2000 Chevrolet Silverado
4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
Poweraid TB Spacer
Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
Edge CS insight monitor
LS-1 Dual Electric fans
Corvette tranny servo swap
Head Unit: Alpine
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Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)
305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
16" PROCOMP 7089's
2" leveling kit
3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks
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RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
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RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
Hawk HPS Brake pads
Russell braided steel brake lines
Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
EGR in-channel window visors
08-05-2012, 05:19 PM #2
I spray the engine bay with Simple Green let it sit for a few minutes than hose it down. You may need to do it a few times for the first time. But know when I wash the truck I also clean the engine bay. This helps with a few things. If I see a build up of a fluid or something I know there is a leak and it also keeps the engine bay looking clean.
2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18
08-05-2012, 06:19 PM #3
I do something similar with simple green, then I scrub a little with a soft brush and then I wash it off with a pressure washer.
Typically I will spray down the engine with the simple green or light degreaser, scrub it, and have the power washer ready, next I jump in and start the engine and then jump back out and hit it with the pressure washer.
the reason for that is,
if the engine is not running, you can potentially get it wet enough that it will not start back up if water gets somewhere it should not. The down side is, you have to get the simple green off before the engine gets too hot cause you do not want to crack the engine. ( that is why you start with it off, and then turn it on before hitting it with the water, the engine is cold so the water will not cause the engine block to crack, but the engine heats up quick, so it is a timing thing.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert and if you drowned your engine by cleaning it and it will not start, or cause any damage of any kind to your engine; I am not liable for what you did.
08-05-2012, 06:55 PM #4
I'm going to go with simple green as well. I've just sprayed it under the hood before washing the truck. When I finish washing I just hose it off. I've done this for quite awhile so you may need a pressure washer depending on the grime thickness.
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08-05-2012, 07:01 PM #5
well so far simple green seems like a unanimous winner
are there any electrical spots to really try to keep the water away from? or is it all fair game for the most part
08-05-2012, 07:06 PM #6
My truck is the same year as yours, but I have the 5.3L engine.
The last time I did it, I wanted to get as much grime off as possible. We don't have distributor caps on our engines, so almost anything is fair game.
I tend to be careful around the fuel rails and coil packs to the left and right of the intake manifold and then the spark plugs. I did get too much water around my knock sensors and they were lighting up my dash with error codes for 2 months until they completely dried out (under the intake manifold) so be careful there.
Also watch the spark plug wires and make sure they are tight around your plugs so water does not get in there.
I also put the truck on ramps and degreased and power washed the under side of the engine/transmission also, but you can be less careful from the bottom.... any time it rains water splashes around under the truck.
08-05-2012, 07:58 PM #7
I would keep the water away from your alternator also
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Z71 Crew Cab "All-Star Edition"
Line-X'd Custom Brush Guard(Heavy Duty)
5.3L Flex Fuel
275/65R18 Toyo Open Country AT2's
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Exterior PLUS Package
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Cat-Back Dual Exhaust
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Next Planned Mods
Blacked out Tail Lights
08-07-2012, 02:00 PM #8
When I spray the degreaser, I do it over EVERYTHING in the engine compartment. I've done this for years, and never had a problem. (It also helps that I use dielectric grease on 100% of my electrical connections, and those I work on. I go through a couple tubes a year.) It has the added value of making the black plastic stuff look great when you're done.
Once I let the degreaser sit for a while (a couple of minutes) I wash it down with the low-pressure spot free rinse, until it's all washed away. The sole exception to the low pressure wash is when I'm trying to get the bug grime out of the radiator fins. I'll use the standard rinse, but always hold it well away from the fins (to not bend them under the pressure).
I've done this with both the engine running and off, no problems either way.
I do this to LOTS of vehicles I work on, as I find the engine compartment's nastiness is a real inhibitor to working on some parts or doing basic maintenance (like spark plug changes). Much easier to work in a clean environment. For 3 bucks and 5-100 minutes, it sure beats hand spraying things down with simple green! Since my shop prices are "free plus the cost of parts," (select clientele, don't bother asking if you can bring it over, it's pretty much a neighborhood and family thing I do as a hobby!), if a compartment is nasty, I require folks to clean it up before I work on it. I typically will just ride with folks over to the car wash (a couple blocks away) the day before we do the work.
The only thing you have to watch for is getting the degreaser on paint. It WILL strip wax. Typically, I'll clean and throw a coat of wax over anything that gets splashed, afterwards. Easy to do with modern applications. The same should be done for Simple Green overspray as well.
-Skippy2006 Vortec Max 1500
-Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
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08-07-2012, 03:58 PM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
White Lightning or Simple Green both work good There is also P-21 Moyorcycle cleaner that works great. As for High Preasure?? I would NOT use that. A light spray (more then a mist) Is all I would do and keep the water away from the Alt and Air cleaner.08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X
08-07-2012, 06:23 PM #10
When I come off the beach after a day of slinging sand the first car wash I see I stop. I do as Skippy described. I want to get all the sale water and sand off of anything that can be taken care of. I have done this on all my Jeeps as well as my truck. I try to keep my engine bay as clean as I keep my truck. Especially since I have painted the parts that I have. I have never had any kind of issue by doing this. It might not be the best to do but it is how I do it.
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