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  1. #11

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    Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Busted Axleshaft!

    Sounds like either a snapped shaft or stripped splines. Either can and does happen fairly frequently on well-used trucks. The 10-bolt is a semi-floater, so the shaft may or may nor come out. I'd pull the passenger side shaft and see what ya got in there. If it's just stripped splines, stick it back in, drop the rear shaft and lock the front hubs for a while. If the shaft is broke, it can wander out on it's own and leave you doing the tricycle thing going down the road. That sucks...done it twice over the years.

    I'm not sure if your 10 bolt is a C clip or not...they made them both ways depending on the year. If it is, it's likely stripped splines...which is the most likely.
    Rob
    1999 Suburban C1500 LS 5.7 K&N filter, VentVisors, debadged aka "LAAT/i...Larty"
    1994 C2500 454. Ex-Forest Service beastie. aka "Redneck"
    2006 Saturn Ion...the Wife's car.
    Empty spot that needs a Jeep...

  2. #12

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    This is a stupid question that doesn't really help you fix your rear but what kind of gas mileage are you getting with it in 4 wheel drive(I guess for you front wheel drive) all the time?

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #13

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    Can't speak for anyone else, but I had to do it for a few weeks once. Didn't notice a difference.

  4. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gryphon View Post
    Can't speak for anyone else, but I had to do it for a few weeks once. Didn't notice a difference.

    Really thats surprising you would think that it would decrease you fuel mileage trying to move that much mass with a less efficient drive system that's only meant to work part time.

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    Really thats surprising you would think that it would decrease you fuel mileage trying to move that much mass with a less efficient drive system that's only meant to work part time.
    Its a driveshaft going to a live axle. The only appreciable difference is the gear or chain transfer system in the t'case and the steering joints. Otherwise, aside from minute differences in weight transfer, the system is the same. The amount of extra drag from the t'case is not a consideration as most of this linkage is turning anyways, even in 2wd. By dropping the rear shaft, you save a teeny bit of weight although you do keep the rear axleshafts and diff turning. however, in a V8 truck application, this amount of rotating mass combined with the drag of components should be negligible. You may see the loss of a mile or two per gallon...but on an application that gets between 10 to 15 mpg anyways, it's really not a consideration. Either way, it is a limp-home scenario, not a redesign for daily use. If that was the case, I would advocate a swap to a full-float rear axle with locking hubs. But again, the suspension and such is not designed to operate in that manner...a limp-home, gotta-make-it-work scenario.

    You do pose a question worth consideration, which is why I went into such detail. Hope it helps!

  6. #16

    Default

    Point well made thanks for actually taking the time to explain your self and full answer my question.

  7. #17

    Default

    Thanks for taking it right!

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