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08-21-2012, 06:49 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
1996 chevy k1500 4x4 4.3 truck runs then gets hot and stalls,
my truck just runs untill it warms up then stalls and wants to start kinda when it stalls if i let it sit for a couple of minuts if starts back up i have replaced the whole distubuter and plugs wires, coil pack, ignition moduale, fuel pump, alternator, fuel filter battery also a crank sensor a year ago and no codes show up i dont now what is wrong and anyone willing to help out is appreciated thanks (i just want this thing to run) was rebuilt last summer also
08-21-2012, 07:36 PM #2
These are really tricky ones. Some things that I've found that cause stalling like this:
1) The fuel pump relay. If you didn't replace the fuel pump relay at the time of fuel pump replacement, you might try swapping the relay out with a known good one (sometimes the relays in the truck are interchangeable, such as with the lights or horn). The relay has small amounts of solder that crack with age. When cool, the metal is compressed, but when the traces expand with heat, the relay basically disconnects. It's not a long shot, but also not incredibly likely. On the flipside, you can replace a lot of expensive parts if you don't check this out first! That, and it's a cheap fix!
2) Idle Air Control Valve. This valve controls the amount of air allowed into the intake when the throttle plate is closed. If you are having idle problems and stalling, this is a first choice point of looking. There's a lot of information about how to clean the 4.3L IACV, do a quick search. It's been my experience though that cleaning of the IACV is generally a short term fix, an you'll likely need to replace it, if this is the problem. There are multiple valve settings on the IACV, based on the engine temperature. The warm-up of the engine may be inadvertently causing this valve to close off to the point air isn't passing through.
3) Clean the throttle body intake. A very badly clogged throttle body (especially if your throttle plate has a hole that is clogged not allowing air to come into the intake when the IACV closes) can cause the conditions you describe, though you're typically more likely to see problems before warmup. Off hand I can't picture the 4.3L throttle plate, but it's worth taking a look. Just pull the intake tube from the throttle body (the end not connected to the air filter box, and look at the throttle plate, if there's a pinhole in it that's clogged, clear it with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Then spray the throat liberally (with the plate held open) and scrub away. Wipe away what you can, then repeat until clean. When you attempt to restart, the fluid left in the intake will make it hard to start for a few minutes (you may need to try starting multiple times), this is normal. Lots of information on this site about cleaning your throttle body.
4) Fuel injectors... Hold a screwdriver tip on the head of each injector and then put the handle to your ear. You'll hear a clicking sound when they're pulsing. Make sure each is doing so... Usually a bad injector will throw a code, though, so this is unlikely... However, it's a super easy check...
Off hand, this is what I would try, before doing major part diagnosis.
Hope this helps
Skippy.2006 Vortec Max 1500
-Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
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08-21-2012, 08:55 PM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Cameron, NC
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Sounds like a classic ignition control module. Did you change that when you did the distributor? Perhaps you got a bad one."It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.
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