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Thread: Minor Problems

  1. #11

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    Actually, now that I think of it, toward the end, it did really squeak, and it was only sometimes... Definitely check that pulley....
    00 Chevy Tahoe LT, 5.3 4x4

  2. #12

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    That I don't know... But the power steering is working great and not having any problems. Also my brakes are working fine just don't have ABS when I slam on the brakes.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #13

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    Sadly I can not check this out until I get back from Maine but will check as some as I get back.

  4. #14

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    So the squeak didn't happen during start up and driving this morning only a little bit well parking and turning in the parking lot. also none when i drove the truck 3 hours after that and when i drove to work a couple hours ago only squeaking was when parking as well.

  5. #15

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    Squeaking is now getting worse because I'm driving the truck every day again will be checking it out either Monday or during the week. Wish I could this weekend but I'm away for the weekend once again.

  6. #16

    Default Fixed!!

    Well spent about an hour maybe two replacing the belt tensioner pulley that was squeaking. Checked all other pulleys they were smooth and rotated easily (except for the crank shaft for obvious reasons). Took a while because I took lots of pics under the hood and inspected around to make sure all is good.

    Sadly I was unable to replace the rusty factory idler pulley because it has a lock nut of the back I couldn't get off. Also may need a new serpentine belt soon the one on there is reaching its end, has slight cracks between the cogs and barely able to see any of the print on the belt.


    Here's the pics:
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    pulley on the truck was same one it was replaced with from autozone
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    lock nut
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    These are suppose to be in the beginning
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  7. #17

    Default

    glad to hear you fixed your problem
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  8. #18

    Default

    That lock washer is the exact same thing that they use to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You just need to grab one of the fins with a pair of side cutters and twist. It should come right off. They are only there for ease of assembly at the factory. If you do replace it make sure the new one looks exactly the same. I bought one from autozone and it would not work, the fins on the back rubbed. I had to buy an exact replacement at o'reillys

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  9. #19

    Default

    @Pikey it seems it really was only the tensioner pulley because the squeaking has stopped there is a slight quiet squeaking at random times but not sure if its the idler because the pulley's bearing felt factory smooth, smoother than the replacement even. I think the squeak is just the new pulleys bearings getting used to movement and such.

  10. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    That lock washer is the exact same thing that they use to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You just need to grab one of the fins with a pair of side cutters and twist. It should come right off. They are only there for ease of assembly at the factory. If you do replace it make sure the new one looks exactly the same. I bought one from autozone and it would not work, the fins on the back rubbed. I had to buy an exact replacement at o'reillys
    Is the washer required? the squeak is kinda back much quieter and only happens for maybe 30 sec or so then goes away and will occasionally come back. Have read that when pulleys are changed belt should be as well. Also I only have an autozone near by no O'Reilly's they don't exist in my state.

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