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09-23-2012, 09:42 AM #31
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
Keep your current truck-hypermile it-which means pulse and glide in the city.
It almost NEVER makes sense to dump a paid for-or nearly paid for-reliable vehicle- to buy a new or newer vehicle(usually smaller less versatile) JUST FOR MPG.
For example-assume you get 13mpg-and the new vehicle gets 17 mpg.
Student so assume 500 miles per month
500/13=38.5 gallons/mo= $154 USA
500/17=29.4 gallons/mo= $118
You save $36 month or $435 year
Trading yours for a New Colorado-cost at least $12,000 more- or 25 YEAR PAYBACK.
Now if you could find a straight even trade-sell yours buy a Colorado
You would still just save $36 month
The full sized GMs are usually cheaper and easier to DIY repair-easier to find used parts used low mile engines-get parts anywhere in country
And they are generally considered to have more reliable drivetrain.
Smarter play-hypermile your 1/2 ton- get 2 mpg better-so the difference per month is just $20
Keep the truck you KNOW-and which must be reliable-since you mention no problems with it.
Yeah-usually a mistake to buy a newer vehicle just for better FE- many folks did just that in 2008-dumped low mile low year Suburbans to get 3 mpg crossovers-and $30,000 notes-since they were usually still upside down on loam
Keep your truck-unless it is unreliable
PS I'm a mpg nut-will go a long way to get better FE-cars are 2006 Prius 1998 Suburban-
1/2 tons GMs can get 14-16 mpg in pure city with mild hypermiling-even better depends on actual trip length, temps, redlighs etc-and close to 20 mpg hy at 60-65 mph
Make sure you run tire pressure at LEAST door decal-and closer to sidewall max is better(if ride doesn't get too rough)
Pulse and gliding in city has replaced "old style" egg between foot and gas pedal in modern vehicles-worth maybe .5-1 mpg better than "egg under foot"1998 suburban-
09-23-2012, 03:56 PM #32
As for never getting stuck, I didn't mean to infer that driving a 2wd truck wasn't possible in snow and ice. I did it for years with a Ford Ranger, and then with a 2wd F150. Never got stuck either. But what I did find is that unless I really really weighed down that back end with sand and bricks, it'd slip like crazy on ice. Snow, not so much. Ice... horrible.
Front Wheel Drive vehicles are inherently more stable on very slick surfaces where the only traction is the two (or one) wheel(s) with power. Pulling a vehicle in the right direction is a whole lot easier than pushing from the back end. The car's butt simply just follows the front. The truck, more than once I'd slide the front end toward something that was unintended.
I've never done a 180 or a 360 on ice in a car... a 2wd truck on black ice? twice each. Both times, going less than 20 MPH around curves. Scares the crap out of you. 360's are fun though, because you're like "BOOYAH!" and just keep driving.
Goosing a FWD vehicle typically pulls the car back in. Goosing a RWD vehicle pretty much guarantees a donut. LOL
All that being said, I still prefer my 4wd truck over either of them!
-Skippy.2006 Vortec Max 1500
-Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
-Spray-in Bed Liner
-Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
-Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)
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