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  1. #1

    Default can I swap a pumpkin from a '91 2WD 3.71 14 bolt to a '85 14 bolt 4.1 for mileage?

    Title pretty much says it all- I've got an '85 2WD C20 with a 14 bolt rear end and 4.10 ratio and I do highway driving almost exclusively. I'm getting 10-15 mpg at most with my 350 motor, AT. I'd like to do better as it's 250 miles RT each trip= expensive! I can get a 3.71 pumpkin from a newer (newer than '91) 14 bolt rear end, a 2500 2WD. Can I simply pull the axles, cover, input and swap out for mine? That way I think I can keep my housing, axles, brakes, etc and not move 500 pounds of iron back and forth from the wreckers.

    Anyone have experience with this enough to advise on fuel economy for highway driving? Wheels and tires are as original equipment, commercial tires on 16" rims. Tire pressure is as recommended (80 PSI rear)

    I did a similar thing on my other pickup, but I knew those to be interchangeable in advance and owned the parts already, anyway.

  2. #2

    Default

    Good point everyone on low mileage over teh long haul, but gas here, now is $4.10+ a gallon and I'm driving 1000 -2000 miles a month moving, so I likely underestmated the total mileage by 2 or 3 times! I should have probably said" after I move" it's 10k miles in 10 years... Other option would be a tranny swap, but my former Chev 4x4, a 912500 went through 4 flex plates and 4 gearbox rebuilds in about 7 years, each time the rebuild warranty expired a flex pate would break around the bold circle or between that and the holes... Then the tranny would lose gears a month or so later Not too keen on the 700R4! None of the National chain and certified shops could give me any reasons and would say" this will fix that...

  3. #3

    Default

    I "think" so... The 14" bolt 9.5" axle (semi floating) can be swapped, determined by the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface distance. As soon as I read your post, I recalled this article by Robin Stover.

    Not all 14-bolts are the same. Check out the article for more details. (I don't regurgitate well. )

    http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...rs_and_locker/

    -Skippy
    2006 Vortec Max 1500
    Performance:
    -Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
    Other:
    -Spray-in Bed Liner
    -Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
    -Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)

  4. #4

    Default

    KRCaddis again, to further clarify:
    My C20 rear end has 8 lug axles, does that mean it's full floating? It sounds like the 6 lug are semi-floating. How can I tell the difference?

    Other question - IF I can swap the 14 bolts as I propose (early 90's 14 bolt, 8 lug nto an 85 C2014 bolt 8 lug, can I simply pull the grear set and internals, which I presume controls backlash, clearances and is already set up if it comes out as a single unit (pumpkin), and replace it in-kind with the 90's unit?

    I don't want to buy the entire axle set up if I don't have to - they're 500 pounds and probably cost that much. My brakes, etc., are great - why change what's good with an unknown -higher mileage - truck? (gears last longer than brakes)

  5. #5

    Default

    Man, I wish I had an answer for you. I'm a decent shade-tree mechanic, but never had an opportunity to have to do something like this. All of my experience is with the drive train in front of the transmission... Very little suspension and axle work.

    Hopefully, someone will chime in and give you personal knowledge of what you're trying to do...

    -Skippy

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks Skippy!
    My other truck

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