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  1. #1

    Default Any Power Steering pump replacement tips?

    I am replacing my ps pump in my 2005 yukon XL next week. I can't stand the noise it is making, albeit you can only hear it in the cab. I don't think that I have ever done one. (at least that I can remember). Any tips? I am going to rent the pully puller from autozone so I can pull the pully off of the old one and press it onto the new one. Any tips/suggestions before I start this job? The lines are just clamped hoses so no worry about getting the lines started without cross threading. I bought an AC delco with reservoir, so I don't have to deal with switching that over. I have read that after install I should fill it and soin it by hand a few times to prime it. Any help is appreciated! Thanks.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  2. #2

    Default

    Sounds like you have all the information you need. Just make sure they include the new "O" rings, I've seen those missing from the package in the past and it isnt worth doing the job and not replacing a .05 piece to risk a leak.

  3. #3
    Legend

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    Default

    I would replace the power steering fluid first . drain completely and refill. jack both front wheels off the ground after filling the system then start engine and slowly turn steering wheel left /right. then recheck level. I used prestone fluid with the seal conditioner.

    with a refill of the system when purging you do not want any force on the steering system.
    give it a few hundred milles and you should see a noise reduction. I had this occur many times before. I now replace the fluid after about 7yrs/80,ooomi.


    just recently my steering box was leaking. the input seal ISS to it . I got a repair seal kit for 8.oo. the old seal was not installed correctly . no leaks now. I saved a few hundred on that fix. 2000 SIL.4X4.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    I would replace the power steering fluid first . drain completely and refill. jack both front wheels off the ground after filling the system then start engine and slowly turn steering wheel left /right. then recheck level. I used prestone fluid with the seal conditioner.

    with a refill of the system when purging you do not want any force on the steering system.
    give it a few hundred milles and you should see a noise reduction. I had this occur many times before. I now replace the fluid after about 7yrs/80,ooomi.


    just recently my steering box was leaking. the input seal ISS to it . I got a repair seal kit for 8.oo. the old seal was not installed correctly . no leaks now. I saved a few hundred on that fix. 2000 SIL.4X4.
    All the fluid is new. I just had the gearbox and hydroboost brake booster replaced under warranty. So, I do not want to add any kind of conditioner to the system as everything else is new. They had to do the hydrobooster twice because the first one leaked. The noise came after the second replacement. I assume that the guy was in a hurry or busy and ran the pump with not enough or foaming fluid. That is why it is so noisy. I could have the pump repaired under warranty, but I have a $100 deductible and the new pump is $77. Plus, I prefer not to take it back to the guy and have him put a crappy reman not made for the hydroboost system on the truck. The reman companies seem to rebuild them all the same and show the same part numbers for trucks with hydroboost (7200 lbs) and trucks without. Where GM shows a different part number for each. @tbplus10 what o-ring are you speaking of? The hoses are slide on hose clamp style, so there is no oring on the hose fittings on the pump side, because there are no fittings.

  5. #5
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    everett, massachusetts
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    1,468

    Default

    many have had the steering box replaced with a remanufactured type to find that they just replace the seals and the metal gears are worn so they do fail quickly. now that you explained the noise It is reasonable to assume that the pump was run dry or not properly filled and purged of air causing the damage. the pump should be replaced with a new part to avoid any issues. the O rings would be on the threaded fittings that you may remove to replace the pump. when I removed my input shaft steering box bearing assy the hose had an O ring on the end of the threaded fitting. I removed two hoses.

    the prestone fluid with the seal condition does work to stop leaks if the seals are just shrinking. If the seals are damaged due to improper install then this is where they need replacing.

    I keep my vehicles for 10-17 yrs. and the only power steering leak was with the 2000 sil steering gear input seal leaking . as I mentioned before that was not installed correctly which is why it failed. I thought that possibly the input shaft was corroded causing the leaking but the shaft after using some polishing cloth was perfect. the seal however was very distorted from not being pressed into the housing correctly.

    I was surprised that the internal metal of the steering gear was very clean and no rustly stains.the metal was bright steel. but I do replace this fluid about 5-7 yrs .

  6. #6

    Default

    Some of the older pumps have a block that bolts to the pump for the fluid lines and behind the block there are normally "O" rings.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    Some of the older pumps have a block that bolts to the pump for the fluid lines and behind the block there are normally "O" rings.
    oh, ok! I guess that my major concern is removing the pully and pressing the pully onto the new one. Yes I will have the tool and hope for a nice chamfer as a lead in on the new shaft so I am sure it is going on correctly, but it still concerns me.

  8. #8

    Default

    Pulling the pulley off and reinstalling is going to be interesting. Try to avoid doing it on the truck, but if I remember correctly, you have to pull the pulley to get to the bolts for the pump. You may want to pull at least the top radiator fan shroud to give yourself better access. I didn't on mine and while I got it done, my hands and arms were scraped up a lot more as a result.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 277K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
    Pulling the pulley off and reinstalling is going to be interesting. Try to avoid doing it on the truck, but if I remember correctly, you have to pull the pulley to get to the bolts for the pump. You may want to pull at least the top radiator fan shroud to give yourself better access. I didn't on mine and while I got it done, my hands and arms were scraped up a lot more as a result.
    Yes, I do have to do it on the truck to get to the bolts and to be able to get the pump off the mount. Luckily, my truck came from the factory with electric fans, so I have plenty of room and no shroud to remove.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    oh, ok! I guess that my major concern is removing the pully and pressing the pully onto the new one. Yes I will have the tool and hope for a nice chamfer as a lead in on the new shaft so I am sure it is going on correctly, but it still concerns me.
    If you have problems with the chamfer on the pulley or the pump you should be able to dress it up a little with a file and not create any balance problems. Liquid dishwashing soap always makes for a nice slippery surface that dries off or wash's off easy if things dont slip on as easy as they should.

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