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  1. #11

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    Another decent battery is the Duralast Gold. They come with a 3 year free replacement warranty and 8 year limited warranty. They are made by the same company as Optima batteries (Johnson Controls Battery Group Inc.). I'm on my second one, killed first after draining it beyond 0% with dead alternator they gave me the free replacement and warrantied the new battery. They are great truck starts every time even at times when I've majorly depleted the battery(like when the alternator died truck started without hesitation at 0%).

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  2. #12

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    well ill definitely see what i can do with this battery...

    just a quick reminder did anyone check my 3rd picture??? it seems all of yall skipped it...
    wondering if yall knew what those connections are??? if i should be worried?
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by moogvo View Post
    Plenty of people do things that "work", even if it is not the right way to do something.
    This implies (via use of the article 'the' before the adjective 'right' and the noun 'way') that there is only one 'right way' to do something ... and that is where you and I must agree to disagree. There is almost always more than one proper way/approach to do something.

    Case in point ... if a deep cycle battery's warranty covers its failure to function for a specific amount of time while providing a specific output ... without a requirement that it be recharged a certain way ... then using the deep cycle battery while it is topped off by an alternator and having it replaced under warranty should it prematurely cease to function per its parameters is also a 'right way' to do something. It may not be @moogvo's way to do it, but there's certainly nothing 'wrong' with that approach if one doesn't mind the trip to swap the old for the new ... it's just an alternative 'right' way to approach the problem. In this case it also happens to be an approach that is encouraged by this deep cycle battery's manufacturer (via the labeling of 'dual purpose' and the description indicating its uses include that of a starter battery).

    Is that approach ideal? From a battery longevity standpoint, certainly not ... but from an end-user standpoint it may absolutely be acceptable, as an end-user generally doesn't care about replacement of a battery so long as it doesn't cost anything extra. In fact, an end-user may actually desire a premature, warranty-based battery replacement so that the end-user has a longer life from the pair of batteries (original and replacement) than s/he might get from the original, alone... and has a new battery part of the way through the warranty period instead of an old battery.

    There are numerous 'right' ways to approach problems. @reggiecab2000 should choose the one that's right for HIM and HIS needs/uses.
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 09-10-2012 at 09:14 PM.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    just a quick reminder did anyone check my 3rd picture??? it seems all of yall skipped it...
    wondering if yall knew what those connections are??? if i should be worried?
    If they have never been connected and there's never been a problem then why fret? You could test if the wire will draw anything or has continuity. Also you could just try the good old fashion game of follow the wire until it ends.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    If they have never been connected and there's never been a problem then why fret? You could test if the wire will draw anything or has continuity. Also you could just try the good old fashion game of follow the wire until it ends.
    ohhh follow the wire lol i hate that game!, they all seem to go into the massive loom of wires, totally untraceable,

    no problems yet, hopefully it stays that way
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  6. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    just a quick reminder did anyone check my 3rd picture??? it seems all of yall skipped it...
    wondering if yall knew what those connections are??? if i should be worried?
    They might be the connectors used for a brake controller in the event that one is to be installed for use with the factory towing package. Under my fuse box I seem to recall a red/black wire with an eyelet and a blue wire that was loose (no connector), for mine. (There's actually a third wire for this, but it's not under the fuse box.)

    Search for 'Brake Controller' on these forums if you want to read more, as I dropped a link in a post sometime back and that link detailed the wire locations and such well enough for another to wire up his controller (and it was what I used, too)...

  7. #17

    Default

    SurrealOne

    Either battery will start the engine. I am just stating that a better choice would have been an actual lead acid battery instead of an AGM. No need for a debate.it is what it is. It isn't a matter of "my way" versus "someone else's way", in the same way that painting your car with spray paint cans is not as optimal as using product that was designed for the job.

    I am now going to edit this thread to keep it on topic without the battle.
    Last edited by moogvo; 09-11-2012 at 06:37 AM.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  8. #18

    Default

    @moogvo

    I agree with the edit and appreciate the clarifying response.

  9. #19

    Default

    Yeah the red one has to do with the brake controller. There are two red wires that go to fuse posts at the front of the fuse box. They're fine left off.

  10. #20

    Default

    I just read this write up on batteries;

    http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

    So my thing is that I want batteries I can use with out having to run the engine longer than 5 minutes or so and worry about them draining too far that I have to be a jump when running 400-1000 watts through a stereo.

    That would put me in a "Deep Cycle" battery. But most of the time, I am only using that much power when I am driving so the alternator is essentially ruining the deep cycle battery.

    So if I want a battery or 2 batteries that can do what I want them to, and guarantee me at least 7 years of use between replacements, what do I go with?

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