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  1. #1

    Default installed optima yellow top deep cycle battery

    hey guys, i recently finally invested in an optima yellow top deep cycle battery, previously had an autocraft gold....

    although i gained the "deep cycling" ability, i did downgrade from 800CCA,1000CA to 750CCA,870CA, which hopefully isnt too bad

    hes the new product in my truck. along with alot of wiring i cleaned up on the way
    Click image for larger version. 

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    all my accessories are now ran through a nice split-loom tubing and all tie in to one of the "+" screw terminals.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    ONE QUESTION!
    i decided to remove my fuse box cover because i saw a few unknown wires hanging out...
    now when i removed it , i saw this...
    on the right side of the box you see a loose red wire with a ring terminal on the end, and a blue wire with a connector on the end. also at the top of the box you see another connector with nothing plugged into it... does anyone know what these are for??? should they be loose like that, or how the heck could i figure out what they go to?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    thanks
    Last edited by reggiecab2000; 09-10-2012 at 12:24 AM.
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  2. #2

    Default

    Congrats on the yellow top, I am trying them this time around on my 2000 1500 5.3L (I did a dual yellow top install), and they seem to work good, mine say ?made in mexico" apparently they use to be made in the US and people do not like the ones from mexico as well. :-(.

    No idea on the extra wires, your box looks almost identical to mine and I don't have any bare connections visible near my box.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nakranij View Post
    Congrats on the yellow top, I am trying them this time around on my 2000 1500 5.3L (I did a dual yellow top install), and they seem to work good, mine say ?made in mexico" apparently they use to be made in the US and people do not like the ones from mexico as well. :-(.

    No idea on the extra wires, your box looks almost identical to mine and I don't have any bare connections visible near my box.
    i saw that mexico sticker on mine too, i was appalled... i heard they recently moved their manufacturing there... it was kind of like a buzzkill, i hope it lasts
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  4. #4

    Default

    Optima batteries have been made in Mexico for a long while and the US plant closed for good some time ago. See my response, here, for more details: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...#axzz265AdVxIY

  5. #5

    Default

    Optima makes great batteries. The yellow top, however is not the optimal choice for automotive use. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be used to a deeply discharged state before being charged, while the starting battery is designed to give a heavier punch to start the vehicle and then be charged back up immediately. Deep cycle batteries are ideal for use in boats with trolling motors, campers, UPSs, and other machinery that doesn't have the ability to charge "on the fly"

    With a deep cycle battery, you lose cranking time in the event your vehicle doesn't start up right away. You also will experience a shorter useful life from a deep cycle because it is not designed to be charged constantly. The optimal choice for vehicle applications would be the Optima Red Top... For future reference.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by moogvo View Post
    Optima makes great batteries. The yellow top, however is not the optimal choice for automotive use. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be used to a deeply discharged state before being charged, while the starting battery is designed to give a heavier punch to start the vehicle and then be charged back up immediately. Deep cycle batteries are ideal for use in boats with trolling motors, campers, UPSs, and other machinery that doesn't have the ability to charge "on the fly"

    With a deep cycle battery, you lose cranking time in the event your vehicle doesn't start up right away. You also will experience a shorter useful life from a deep cycle because it is not designed to be charged constantly. The optimal choice for vehicle applications would be the Optima Red Top... For future reference.
    well damn moogvo, where was your advice when i was researching the crap outta this a year ago? lol
    Should i try to go in a swap the battery for a red top since its less than a week old???
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    well damn moogvo, where was your advice when i was researching the crap outta this a year ago? lol
    Should i try to go in a swap the battery for a red top since its less than a week old???
    Actually the red top is for starting (only) while the yellow top is dual purpose (i.e. starting AND for extended use/deep cycling without charging). So sayeth Optima (http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en...cts/yellowtop/).

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Actually the red top is for starting (only) while the yellow top is dual purpose (i.e. starting AND for extended use/deep cycling without charging). So sayeth Optima (http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en...cts/yellowtop/).
    They may claim that the yellow top is for both, but only because it will work... Sort of on the same level that stop leak will work. Deep cycle batteries life span will be considerably shorter than their lead acid counterparts when improperly charged and maintained. Deep cycle batteries like to be maintained by using a 3 or 4 stage charger and not a brute force alternator while lead acid batteries are pretty resilient under those conditions.

    Plenty of people do things that "work", even if it is not the right way to do something. there is a lot more to understand about batteries than just the voltage. I have 6 deep deep cycle batteries in my home office that power the UPS units. Each of them cost about $450.00. The charging system on those batteries cost over $1000.00. It is the difference between the batteries lasting a year and the batteries lasting 8 to 10 years with maximum power availability across the life of the batteries. You would never think that there is so much to know about batteries, but there are books of information.

    If it were me, I would take the yellow top back and see if they will exchange it. More often than not, those will not hold a full charge after 9 months to a year after using them in an automotive environment. The worst they can say is "no".
    Last edited by moogvo; 09-10-2012 at 08:19 PM.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by moogvo View Post
    They may claim that the yellow top is for both, but only because it will work... Sort of on the same level that stop leak will work. Deep cycle batteries life span will be considerably shorter than their lead acid counterparts.

    Plenty of people do things that "work", even if it is not the right way to do something. there is a lot more to understand about batteries than just the voltage. I have 6 deep deep cycle batteries in my home office that power the UPS units. Each of them cost about $450.00. The charging system on those batteries cost over $1000.00. It is the difference between the batteries lasting a year and the batteries lasting 8 to 10 years with maximum power availability across the life of the batteries. You would never think that there is so much to know about batteries, but there are books of information.

    If it were me, I would take the yellow top back and see if they will exchange it. More often than not, those will not hold a full charge after 9 months to a year after using them in an automotive environment. The worst they can say is "no".
    well you seem real dedicated to your viewpoint of this situation moogvo,
    you would say say to opt for the red top or are you hinting at a whole other type of battery,
    i guess these are the inputs i get from my fellow gmtc mates, which i shouldve gotten BEFORE i got this battery lol
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reggiecab2000 View Post
    well you seem real dedicated to your viewpoint of this situation moogvo,
    you would say say to opt for the red top or are you hinting at a whole other type of battery,
    i guess these are the inputs i get from my fellow gmtc mates, which i shouldve gotten BEFORE i got this battery lol
    The optima batteries are unique in that they use a spiral lead plate configuration which allows more surface area for the electrolyte to be in contact with. There are 6 spiral cells inside (hence, the 6-pack shape of the battery casing). They are superior to other batteries of standard design. The red top is a great product. The biggest benefit is that it is sealed so it won't leak acid and corrode your battery tray. The remaining benefits of the battery over an Interstate battery, for instance, is notable but perhaps not worth the cost difference. Stay away from the dura last and everstart batteries! Especially the cheap ones. The platinum series dura last batteries are actually pretty good.

    The last time I looked at the price of optima batteries, they were almost twice the price of a comparable Interstate.

    The optima is a good battery but perhaps over-hyped just a tad. I have had interstate batteries that lasted 8 years. Never had a problem with them.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

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