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  1. #1

    Default Upper Ball Joint Replacement Help

    So with 8 days left, I figured I'd replace my upper ball joints and get a alignment and have a normal driving truck for 4 or 5 more days.

    Here's my ledima:

    Should I buy the Ball Joints and Control Arms in one whole swoop (123$ with Moog Ball Joints) and replace them then get a alingment;

    Buy the Ball Joints only (25$-50$), take control arms and ball joints off, have a shop press them out and in ($40+-), then get an alignment;

    Or just have a shop do the whole thing ($$$-$$$.$$) + alignment ($$-$$$)? < don't want that since last time I'm sure I got wallet raped.



    If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger cheater bar.

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    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 "Vortec" | Spectre "Cold Air Intake" | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tail Lights | Denali headlights | Grill Mounted Fog Lights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/70/16 Futura Scramblers | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers 2N1O | Mostly stock-ish
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    CVN-69 "IKE-ATRAZ" AIR/V-2 Gear Dawgs

  2. #2

    Default

    I typically rent a ball joint press and just press them out. the swapping of the whole assembly would be easy and if your control arm bushings are fairly worn not a bad idea. If you are fairly handy do the work yourself and then take it in to have it aligned. I like a good older mechanic with old school gauges for alignment as they typically dial them in. The new laser racks usually the tech just gets it into a green area and goes on their way and is real expensive too. But as with anything finding a good shop is key.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
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    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  3. #3

    Default

    I agree with dsfloyd on this. I too rent the press and do it myself. IF I could afford the entire arm I would buy it for sure. I think The bushings for those run around $100 for all 8. But, the machine shop near me wants $40 each arm to press them in and out. So, in the long run it may be cheaper and less work to swap the entire arm out. I am not saying that your bushings are bad, they could be, but who knows? I tend to want to tighten everything up in the front end all at the same when I do that kind of work. (tie rods, ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket, and bushings) Plus when you put your lift kit on and the larger tires you may start eating ball joints. It will be nice to have the upper with a lifetime warranty that you can pull off yourself and replace instead of paying someone everytime
    Last edited by Pikey; 09-11-2012 at 02:27 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
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  4. #4
    Sr. Engineer
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    Oct 2010
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    493

    Default

    I would lean hard toward replacing entire arm. Upwards of 90.00 just for parts and labor and all you have is a new ball joint. I mean really, if you take it to get joint pressed out , you've already removed the arm and have got it in your hand and so for less trouble, just put a new one in.
    2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks guys. I did go buy 2 new assemblies, which turn out to be Master Pros for $201. I have too much on my plate today to even attempt it. Looking at the bushings I see some dry rot; however, it looks to be surface rot so I figured what the hell, the truck has 245,000 miles on it.

    Is there a special tool I will need to pop the ball joint from the steering knuckle or will some brute strength (body weight from my dad ) and brains (again, from my dad) get them out?

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rileyjr16 View Post
    Thanks guys. I did go buy 2 new assemblies, which turn out to be Master Pros for $201. I have too much on my plate today to even attempt it. Looking at the bushings I see some dry rot; however, it looks to be surface rot so I figured what the hell, the truck has 245,000 miles on it.

    Is there a special tool I will need to pop the ball joint from the steering knuckle or will some brute strength (body weight from my dad ) and brains (again, from my dad) get them out?
    You can rent a ball joint separator from autozone for free. Just take the nut off and beat the fork in
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    You can rent a ball joint separator from autozone for free. Just take the nut off and beat the fork in
    I'm just curious how one rents something for free


    Thanks Pikey, I guess I'll go there tomorrow and rent one for free lol. Shouldn't take long huh?

  8. #8

    Default

    They make you pay for it with a credit card. Then when you return it they refund your money

  9. #9

    Default

    no it should not take that long. Just remember to spin the nuts off the bolts for the control arm not turning the bolts. The Bolts are cam bolts and if you spin them with an impact gun you can damage them.

  10. #10

    Default

    ball joint seperator is one way the other is to use a sledge hammer and hit the side of the knuckle where the ball joint rod goes through. Usually a few whacks and it pops out.

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