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  1. #1

    Default Help understanding duramaxes since I am looking for one.

    Hi,

    I have been looking at duramaxes and have been looking at them online through autotrader:

    http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...Id=79678&Log=0

    There are 31 trucks right now that meet the criteria I set in that link within 500 miles of my zipcode and I am not sure what I should be looking for as far as a good deal, bad deal, (if someone is trying to push a scam, etc).

  2. #2

    Default

    I guess because I do not know much about the duramax I would look at prices and find out what the average is for the year, miles, options that you are looking for. Then go look at some trucks, when you find one you like take it to a mechanic and have them look at it. They charge between $25-$50 for this.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3

    Default

    My bro has a 08 Dirtymax CC and he loves it...the 08's have brake switch issues but its a cheap and easy fix...he paid 28k for his with 92k on it...pick one you like and go for it...i had a 01 Dirtymax and diesel got pretty expensive at 5 bucks a gallon so got rid of it...the allisons are strong runners!

    2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Z71 Crew Cab "All-Star Edition"

    Line-X'd Bed
    Line-X'd Custom Brush Guard(Heavy Duty)
    5.3L Flex Fuel
    275/65R18 Toyo Open Country AT2's
    2" Rough Country Leveling Kit(want to get the 2.5 RC kit)
    EGR In-Channel Vent Visors
    Exterior PLUS Package
    Interior PLUS Package
    K&N Drop-In Air Filter
    ProFlaps
    Cat-Back Dual Exhaust
    Black Bowties
    Diablo Sport Predator(AFM Disabled)
    ProFlaps
    Towing Mirrors
    Next Planned Mods
    Blacked out Tail Lights
    Aftermarket Rims

  4. #4

    Default

    i dont know a whole lot, but make sure its got a allison in it!

    Alex


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  5. #5

    Default

    As far as Duramaxes go, they all either have the Allison or a manual transmission, so you'll be good in terms of the transmission. I don't know what year you're looking for, but the 2006 and newer would probably be your best bet. I just bought a 2003 Sierra 3500 cab/chassis with a flatdeck for $4250 here with 341,000km (212,000mi) on it. One big thing to look out for on the early models (2001-2004 with RPO code LB7 in the glove box) is the injectors. They had issues with them, and they're internal injectors (under the valve covers). Therefore, it takes a lot of work (and I think about $4000 if you have a dealer do it) to change a set of injectors if they go bad. I think the late 2004-2006 (LLY code) engines had a couple of different issues, but the injectors were mounted externally so they were a lot less difficult to deal with. Overall, I'd say they were better than the first generation.

    In 2006, GM came out with the LBZ Duramax, which had more power and a 6 speed Allison instead of the 5 speed that had been used previously. The LBZ continued through 2007, when they came out with the LMM (more power,etc. and only available on the new style trucks). My understanding is that some new style trucks had the LBZ and some had the newer LMM.

    The 2011+ trucks have the LML engine in them. This engine was designed to have more power and torque and meet stricter emissions standards by adding Diesel Exhaust Fluid (urea injection into the exhaust).

    Overall, the LB7 had the least emissions stuff on it, and would probably be the simplest one. The LLY had a good mix of reliability, power, etc. The LBZ and newer have better power but more emissions crap and computer controls. I've also heard that people can get pretty close to 20 mpg on the highway easily with the LB7 and LLY (and possibly the LBZ) due to less emissions equipment, but that the newer ones with the Diesel Particulate Filters and such tend to get considerably lower fuel economy. I haven't had mine long enough to give you any personal experience on this though.

    My advice would be just make sure that whatever truck you might end up buying runs smooth, shifts smooth and doesnt have any tapping or knocking noises. As long as those areas are good, you should end up with a pretty solid truck. I can say I'm very happy with mine.

    2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE


  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pmf608 View Post
    As far as Duramaxes go, they all either have the Allison or a manual transmission, so you'll be good in terms of the transmission. I don't know what year you're looking for, but the 2006 and newer would probably be your best bet. I just bought a 2003 Sierra 3500 cab/chassis with a flatdeck for $4250 here with 341,000km (212,000mi) on it. One big thing to look out for on the early models (2001-2004 with RPO code LB7 in the glove box) is the injectors. They had issues with them, and they're internal injectors (under the valve covers). Therefore, it takes a lot of work (and I think about $4000 if you have a dealer do it) to change a set of injectors if they go bad. I think the late 2004-2006 (LLY code) engines had a couple of different issues, but the injectors were mounted externally so they were a lot less difficult to deal with. Overall, I'd say they were better than the first generation.

    In 2006, GM came out with the LBZ Duramax, which had more power and a 6 speed Allison instead of the 5 speed that had been used previously. The LBZ continued through 2007, when they came out with the LMM (more power,etc. and only available on the new style trucks). My understanding is that some new style trucks had the LBZ and some had the newer LMM.

    The 2011+ trucks have the LML engine in them. This engine was designed to have more power and torque and meet stricter emissions standards by adding Diesel Exhaust Fluid (urea injection into the exhaust).

    Overall, the LB7 had the least emissions stuff on it, and would probably be the simplest one. The LLY had a good mix of reliability, power, etc. The LBZ and newer have better power but more emissions crap and computer controls. I've also heard that people can get pretty close to 20 mpg on the highway easily with the LB7 and LLY (and possibly the LBZ) due to less emissions equipment, but that the newer ones with the Diesel Particulate Filters and such tend to get considerably lower fuel economy. I haven't had mine long enough to give you any personal experience on this though.

    My advice would be just make sure that whatever truck you might end up buying runs smooth, shifts smooth and doesnt have any tapping or knocking noises. As long as those areas are good, you should end up with a pretty solid truck. I can say I'm very happy with mine.
    Thanks pfm608 that was great information and helps allot

  7. #7

    Default

    Stay away from one that requires urea for emissions. I say this Nak cause than you are cutting into that savings we calculated the other day.





    2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18

  8. #8
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Mar 2009
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    Ballwin, MO
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    53

    Default

    I found out the hard way about the injector issue with the 2001-2004. I would avoid them.


    The memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.

  9. #9
    Jr. Mechanic LB'07-Z's Avatar
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    Aug 2011
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    Holly Pond, AL
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    108

    Default

    I wouldn't shy away from an 01-04 if the injectors have been replaced. Thats why I just bought my 02. The dealership i bought mine from had records that the previous owner had them replaced a year and a half ago. You also can take one to a Chevy dealer and have them test the injectors. I'vealso heard of the 03-05 having overheating issues while towing due to the hood design. If you will notice on the 05.5-07 classic the hood is alittle taller and allows the engine to cool easier. I went with the 02 mainly because I was on a budget and have wanted a Dmax for a long time but if money hadn't have been no object I personally would have got an 05.5-07 classic mainly because I like that body style.

    Luke
    '02 Chevrolet 2500hd
    6.6 Duramax LB7
    3.5" Straight Pipe
    4" MBRP Black Exhaust Tip
    Tow Mirrors
    TSC Black Low Profile Tool Box
    Maverick Brush Guard




  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aloxdaddy99 View Post
    Stay away from one that requires urea for emissions. I say this Nak cause than you are cutting into that savings we calculated the other day.
    Yep, I am going to do my best to stay away from a brand new one so I don't have to deal with the urea mess.... I think a 2010 will be the newest i am looking at.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by LB'07-Z View Post
    I wouldn't shy away from an 01-04 if the injectors have been replaced. Thats why I just bought my 02. The dealership i bought mine from had records that the previous owner had them replaced a year and a half ago. You also can take one to a Chevy dealer and have them test the injectors. I'vealso heard of the 03-05 having overheating issues while towing due to the hood design. If you will notice on the 05.5-07 classic the hood is alittle taller and allows the engine to cool easier. I went with the 02 mainly because I was on a budget and have wanted a Dmax for a long time but if money hadn't have been no object I personally would have got an 05.5-07 classic mainly because I like that body style.
    Quote Originally Posted by Brews View Post
    I found out the hard way about the injector issue with the 2001-2004. I would avoid them.

    So this brings up a good question that I would like an answer to. The fuel injectors on my gasser (5.3L) are about $100 each or $800 all together + install unless I do it myself.

    What is the cost (if you are out of warranty) on the injectors on a Duramax? I keep hearing something like $4000 installed? is it really that high? can you do it yourself? and what is the life expectancy of them?

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