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  1. #1

    Default Driverside window won't go up or down

    Hey guys, having trouble finding my earlier post, so I'll try it again. I've got a 2007 Sierra, Black on Black, front leveling kit, K&N Filter, Performance Chip.

    My issue is the driver side window got left down in a downpour. Now the driver side window "only" is stuck about an inch from the top. All the other windows and functions on the main panel work fine. I haven't started troubleshooting it yet cause you need a degree from Harvard to get this thing off.

    Getting the panel off to get to the switch and motor....there's got to be a trick to it. I've got a new aftermarket motor just in case, but no switches.

    I just need the trick to ge the panel off so I can troubleshoot the problem. This is where i need help.

    Any suggestions on pullin this pane ?




















    Any thoughts or suggestions?
    Last edited by swhite64; 09-14-2012 at 04:32 AM.

  2. #2

    Default

    I'm sorry, I wish I could help. I've accidentally done the same thing on mine and been worried about something shorting but so far have been lucky. I'll keep an eye on the thread though since I might be looking at something similar at some point.

    That being said, Welcome to the club.

    To Be Completed (Eventually):
    6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp

  3. #3

    Default

    i would post this in the chevy tech forum, youll be more likely to find the help there bud. but Welcome to the club.


    2010 Silverado Z71

    Kyle-USAF-MI/VA

    "Fueled by Haters"

    TCS front box 7"-9" set at 8.5" | FTS coilovers(blue coil) with resis and FTS shocks with resis| 20" Fuel Off-Road Revolver Rims | 35x12.50 Nitto Trail Grapplers | Halo Projector Head Lights by Recon- Black | Led Taillights by Recon- Smoked | Dumped Straight pipe | Volant CAI | Ranch Hand Front Bumper | DiabloSport Trinity Programmer | Tow Mirrors with Turn Signal | Cervinis Ram-Air hood | 4.56 USA gears with tru trac locker | Longshot Lighting 6000k 55w low beam and 6000k 35w fogs HIDs | 7" lift leaf spring | Blue TCS traction bars

    Future Mods: Long tube headers
    | Custom tune | Cam | Stall Converter

  4. #4

    Default

    Welcome to the club, it's good to have you aboard. Check this video out and see if it will help.


    2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab SportSide: See Mods in My Garage

  5. #5

    Default

    The power window actuator does not like to get wet. if water got down in there and the motor is having problems pulling the window back up, it will only get worse over time.

    It is an easy fix if you know how to replace it.


    • Pull the door panal off.
    • Remove, or curl the plastic water guard up.
    • connect the power window buttons back up
    • while pressing the button, take you hand and push the window back into place (all the way up).
    • take some painters tape and tape the window into place.
    • get the 4 bolts and remove the actuator and pull it out the door.
    • remove the bolts holding the glass in place.
    • install the new one.
    • Put everything back together
    • remove the tape and you are done


    I have done this twice now and can do it in less than 30 minutes per door.

  6. #6

    Default

    Moved post to maintenance forum, carry on.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Havent removed a door panel on this year GM but if it holds form to all other year trucks heres a few tips to removing the panel:
    Should be screws in the arm rest, probably hidden by small removable caps, take these out.
    Possibly more screws in any hard plastic panels lower on the door around speakers, again covered by caps.
    Check the outer edges of the door around where the hard plastic panels over lap the door edges for screws.
    Using a panel tool pop the plastic Dzus fasteners between the door panel and the metal door shell.
    Move the panel upwards, watching for any wiring from switch's, to release the panel from the top edge of the door at the window opening to release any clips holding it onto the window edge.
    Disconnect wiring at connectors or remove switches from panels.
    Your removal will probably be a variation of this since its a general door panel removal description.
    I normally start popping the panel up at the bottom and as I'm going remove screws, snaps, and clips along the way.
    If you break any clips, snaps, or odd fasteners during the removal most Auto Zone parts stores have a section of parts called "Help" and it's usually stocked with all these little fasteners.

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