04 Yukon CV Joint Boot

Discussion in 'Chevy Tahoe Forum (GMC Yukon, Cadillac Escalade)' started by Tommy Panfish, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    I have a torn boot on my driver side CV joint. Looking at my manual looks like I can remove the bolts from the IRS unit and pull the axle shaft out of the hub assembly. Anybody replaced one of these before? I could buy one of those cheap split boots that bolt together, but I'm scarred I'll be in the same spot soon. I am not exactly sure on how the shaft comes out of the IRS unit, does it just unbolt or do I need a special pickle fork for it as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    TP
  2. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator

    for a reapir like that i would go to the dealer drive axles are a whole special section of work on their own since if u mess up putting it back in the truck it will never drive like it used to.
  3. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member

    TP, It is not that big of a job. You really can't mess up putting it back in unless you somehow screw up the splines going into the wheel hub. Sometimes have to take the tie rod off and sometimes a ball upper ball joint so you are able to move the assembly enough to get the shaft out. But, I have been able to do it by taking off the swaybar link. Autozone rents a pickle fork for free if you need one. If you have an issue with things turning while you try to loosen them you can always put it in 4 high. Pull the large nut off the end of the axle shaft and you can take out the 6 or 7 bolts on the flange for the cv shaft. The one side will stay in the front diff and the other is attached to the cv shaft. That shaft is out then. I have not done a boot on one of these, but usually there is a circlip inside that will let you separate the cv joint itself. Clean it up nicely. Then you slide the new boot on put the joint back together, fill her with grease, put the clamps on and done. Sometimes it is a PITA to get the joint back together. I looked into prices in Michigan, around $18 for the boot kit or $57 for a entire shaft. I have begun to get lazy and my time is worth more then the price difference, so I would probably do the entire shaft and be done with it.
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  4. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    I'm leaning towards the whole thing...just called Dearborn Rack & Axle...$50 and then $20 core....thats cheap. When I replaced the front bearing/hub assembly it was a battle to get hub assembly off the spindle...hoping it's not so bad this time. Thanks for the help Pikey...wanna come over to Ypsi and give me a hand!
  5. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member

    I would just do the entire thing. If the other boot rips then your are out $40, So $50 for the whole thing is pretty good. I would consider coming out if it was not one and a half hours away :). If you changed the hub recently it should not be that bad to get apart.
  6. You will need a 36mm socket for the axle nut at the wheel side. Also a good impact ora big breaker bar.
  7. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    Done

    I did the repair on Sunday. I'm lucky to have an Uncle who has a heated shop with a lot of tools. Not that bad of job. I had to back out the sway bar link to get the axle shaft out. Put everything back together with the new axle shaft and replaced all four shocks. Jumped in and headed home and noticed a growling/grinding sound. I originally thought it was my CV joint making noise.....it was the wheel bearing assembly. Back to the parts store, took all back a part, replaced bearing, all set...no more noise. This is the 2nd bearing for the drivers side. Why do these things go through wheel bearings so fast? No lift, stock size tires, wife daily driver. Anybody have any thoughts?
  8. Boonduff

    Boonduff New Member

    What brand of bearing did you use?
  9. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    I replaced the OEM with a Timken 80K ago. So the one I put in on Sunday was a Federal Mogul. But guess what...the growl is back. Coming from same place, driver side. I drove it home Sunday and it was good, wife drove it to work Monday and it was good. Called me on way home from work Monday nightand said truck is making the same sound again. I either have purchased a bad bearing or got another bearing upstream the axleshaft going bad. The wheel bearing I replaced was bad...it made noise when I spun it and had a little slop to it. Any body ever had a replacement part go bad upon installation?
  10. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    It wasn' the wheel bearing this time. Sounds like it's one of the carrier bearings inside the front differential. Taking it to the man tonight. I was quoted $650, anybody know if thats fair?

    Thanks,

    TP

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