04 Yukon Tune Up

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by Tommy Panfish, Apr 21, 2010.

  1. Tommy Panfish

    Tommy Panfish New Member

    Hoping you guys can help me. I have a '04 Yukon w/5.3 that has 135K. I want to replace the plugs, accessory belt and change all the fluids. If anyone has any tricks associated with these items please pass them on. I've done a few searches and haven't came up with anything, but I know some of you guys have been there and done that. The plug wires seem a little difficult to come off. I haven't pulled on them with any pliers yet, but that seems like what's going to be necessary. What about extensions/swivels needed to remove plugs, or any other parts I have to remove to make replacement easier? Your help is appreciated.

  2. Silverado Junkie

    Silverado Junkie Rockstar 4 Years 500 Posts

    You can buy spark plug boot pullers at AutoZone that work better than pliers. And plugs on a vortec arent hard to get to but id bring an extention just in case.
  3. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Buy a 5/8 spark plug socket with a swivel to get to the rear cylinders... Otherwise everything is just as easy on any other motor..
  4. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    For plugs, get AC Delco or Iridium. Gap them at .040". New wires from Napa. Get the premiums, Blue Max by Belden.

    Don't forget a new PCV Valve, fuel filter, air filter.
  5. tahoerd

    tahoerd New Member

    Yours should be exactly the same as my '00 Tahoe 5.3L LT.

    All relatvely simple to do.

    Check you manual, and buy all the correct fluids as specified, espeically the AutotracII transfer case. Must use the GM AutoTracII for this, but can use any brand named fluids for the rest (as long as the spec matches what's in your manual).

    I used the AC Delco iridium plug now sped'd out by GM as the service replacement plug for the 5.3L. See below -

    Spark Plug: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - New Spark Plug Type/Gapping
    Bulletin No.: 03-06-04-060
    Date: October 24, 2003
    Information on New Spark Plugs and Gapping
    2004 Buick Ranier
    2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
    2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
    1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
    1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
    1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
    2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
    2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
    2003-2004 Chevrolet Express, TrailBlazer
    1999-2004 CMC Sierra
    2000-2004 CMC Yukon, Yukon XL
    2001-2004 CMC Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali
    2002-2004 CMC Sierra Denali
    2003-2004 CMC Envoy XL
    1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
    2004 Pontiac GTO
    2003-2004 Hummer H2
    with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V-8 Engine (VINs V, P, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM4, LM7, L59, LSI, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
    A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

    When I did my plugs (at 100K miles, 10 years), pulling the wires off were a bitch, and I ended up braking one. I purchased NAPA silicone "GOLD" low resistance wires for about $80 or so and ended up using them. Had I not broken the originals, I am sure they would have been OK to resuse, as the truck was running fine before I did the plugs change anyway.

    The back plug on the passenger side was a bit of a bear to get on. I read that it may be better to access it through the wheelwell, so consider that approach if you do. Use antisieze on the plugs when reinstalling, and dielectric grease on the boots (so they come off easier next time!) and use a torque wrench if you have one to the correct torque (You have aluminum heads). Now some may say that is not necessary, but I did, and I have done MANY plug changes in my life, so that's up to you.

    Belts are released by releasing tension on the belts at the idler pulleys with a 3/8 breaker bar or wratchet wrench. Forget if you use a socket or it just slips in there, but you will see when you look at the idler pulley.

    I used DEXCOOL fluid in mine at the recommended 5 year change point, and will so so again this year at the next 5 year point. Fluid looked good at first change, and now looks good also, but this is the recommended change interval and I am sticking to that recommendation. BTW, truck has 106K miles on it now, still with original waterpump, thermostat, radiator, hoses etc, so I believe you should stick with DEXCOOL but others may disagree.

    Step by Step instructions for all of these services can be found on either this forum or other Chevy-Yukoin forums, by searching for it specifically using the "search" function.

    If you have done any of these services previously on any other vehicles you may have owned, should be familiar to you, with no surpirses.

    Hope some or all of this helps. Good luck with it!
  6. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    I think the proper gap is .65 on the 5.3L there was a discussion that i was involded in this were we discussed which motors had which gap...
    and i stand corrected on the gapping from the above post.
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2010
  7. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Doesn't matter if you use platinum or iridium, it's just a coating on the plug anyway. The important thing is to have the gap at .040"
  8. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    And if you're doing coolant, I would personally dump the red/orange garbage. Flush it out thoroughly, and put in green.
  9. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    The whole point of the red coolant is to cut down on electrolosys which eats away and causes damage to the Aluminum heads these motors use.. The green coolant doesnt have that addative.. That is the reason it is reccomended plus it is a longer lasting coolant. So i would presonally conduct a coolant test before i waste that money flushing to coolant only to flush something that might not need to be changed for a couple of years....

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