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07 (New style) Silverado 8.25 front right axle seal

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Nobull84, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. Nobull84

    Nobull84 New Member

    I've seen several posts on this site and others regarding front axle seal replacement. My question is; what is the easiest way to replace the front passenger seal on these 8.25 axles. Am I right in thinking that just the right side axle tube needs removed from the differential housing to remove the snap ring retaining the axle flange? I see this job as: removing the bolts from the CV axle to the flange, removing the RH axle tube assembly, snap ring for the flange, replace seal and reassemble. Am I missing any important steps here?

    I see most people opt to remove the entire diff assembly but I'm trying to fix the leaky seal with being as less invasive as possible. I have one vehicle and one weekend to do this. Any extra parts I should have on hand that could break besides the seal?

    Thanks,
    -Nobull
     
  2. BornAgainBiker55

    BornAgainBiker55 Rockstar 100 Posts

    I stumbled across your post, NoBull, because I have the same problem with the same year truck. I've read this is somewhat of a recurring problem but I mostly only found info regarding the Left (Driver) side. Sad to say that side is much easier. I'm actually hoping mine falls under power-train warranty. I plan on calling after I type this up and seeing if that's so. Much better to have them do this for free... (UPDATE: I don't know why I thought it was 10 years / 100,000 miles... it's 5 years so I'm out. Dealer quoted me $300. A local shop (Greeley, CO) quoted $105, said it's a common problem and they do them within 1.5 hours. Said it's really easy)

    With that said, here's the steps according to my Chilton (Keep in mind it only has steps for a full rebuild):
    1. Remove wheel
    2. Remove differential carrier splash shield (the plastic belly pan I believe)
    3. Drain lubricant from front differential
    4. Unbolt right drive-axle from axle-shaft flange, and support out of the way (I'd imagine letting it hang by the CV joint would result in replacing said CV joint shortly down the road)
    5. Remove front axle shift motor (The little solenoid on the axle tube)
    6. Remove shock absorber / coil-spring assembly (9.25 Axles need to remove the stabilizer link)
    7. 2500 and 3500 vehicles only: Remove the front axle bracket bolts and nuts, slide front axle bracket forward for additional clearance to inner axle housing
    8. Support differential carrier with floor jack and wood block to prevent shifting
    9. Remove bolts holding axle tube to differential carrier (I counted 5 or 6 to memory)
    10. Remove nuts that attach axle tube to support bracket
    11. Carefully remove the output shaft tube, without letting any components fall out, and then remove shift sleeve and thrust washer and seal
    12. Mount tube in vise with jaws on the flange. Now you can remove the damper spring, clip, fork, sleeve, gear, thrust washer and shift shaft
    13. Remove output shaft from tube by striking inside flange with soft face hammer while holding the tube
    14. Use a large screwdriver to pry deflector and seal from tube
    15. Measure installed depth of axle-shaft bearing, then remove with slide hammer
    16. Install new bearing with square shoulder facing in (Use a bearing driver or a socket just smaller than the bearing)
    17. Install new seal and deflector. Lubricate lips of the seal with multi-purpose grease
    18. Install axle-shaft, carefully driving with a soft faced hammer
    19. Install thrust washer, gear, sleeve, shaft, shift fork, clip and spring
    20. Apply RTV sealant to the tube / differential housing mating surface
    21. Apply grease to the thrust washer and install, then install the gear and shift sleeve
    22. Carefully install the output shaft tube assembly and install bolts. (Torque to 41 Ft-Lbs, 30 for a 9.25 axle)
    23. Install tube / chassis nuts and Torque to 75 Ft-Lbs
    24. Install drive-axle
    25. Install front axle shift motor (I'd use RTV to seal that back up too)
    25b. Put your shocks and/or stabilizer link and/or axle bracket bolts (Chilton missed this step)
    26. Fill differential
    27. Install splash shield
    28. Install wheel

    Maybe someone out there knows if you can leave the tube on for the front-right (Passenger) differential axle seal/bearing? UPDATE: Talked with a local shop and the local GM dealer tech. You have to remove all of them stuff regardless of replacing the bits or just the seal. Hour and a half according to the local guy
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014

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