1996 suburban "loose" door issue.

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by estrom, Mar 24, 2014.

  1. estrom

    estrom Rockstar

    The door on my 96 suburban got the typical sag issue so I replaced the pins and bushings. The sag/drop problem is solved and the door closes nicely, but since doing that, I've noticed that the door now jiggles/rattles more than it used to. It's not horrible, but when I cross bumps like railroad tracks the door jars around like it's looser than it used to be prior to changing pins and bushings. Solving one problem created another it seems. Any ideas on what to look at to make the door "fit" better when closed? Thanks!
  2. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    I have heard that the bushings that are included in the dorman kits are pretty poor quality. I wonder if that is your issue. The problem is that I don't know of anyone else manufacturing them
  3. estrom

    estrom Rockstar

    You are right about the dorman bushings - utter crap. You have to have a surgeon's precision to get them in place without breaking them. They are very fragile & I don't see how they're going to last very long. I called a dealer and he quoted me $6 PER BUSHING (!) for GM parts. Anyways, I got the dorman bushings in and they are in good shape right now, so I can't see that as the problem at this point.
  4. Dana W

    Dana W Rockstar 3 Years 500 Posts

    Has the door lock catch on the door been adjusted over time to compensate for the door pin wear? Maybe it needs to be looked at. Can you jiggle or rattle the door by hand when it's closed? Maybe it just needs a new rubber door seal so it will fit well again. LMC trucks dot com has them.
  5. estrom

    estrom Rockstar

    Dana, how is the lock catch adjusted? I can move the door a little when it's closed. I think the rubber is good, but I'll check that too. Thanks
  6. Dana W

    Dana W Rockstar 3 Years 500 Posts

    Believe me, if the rubber is original it is anything but good. 19 years? Ohhhhhh Kaaaayyyyy. :wink: It should feel thick and heavy and very resilient if it is good. If your 95 is anything like my 99, the seal will feel like an empty plastic dishwashing glove and be split almost all the way around.

    Only adjust the latch if the door is moving at the latch and you know the door seal is sturdy, After years of being nonchalantly and gently SLAMMED the latch can move a little, or if the seal has gone all mashy it will be loose.

    As for the latch, Before you mess with it, get a grease pencil and mark the edges of the hole in the door and the latch hook with some alignment marks. A vertical and horizontal center line would be best.

    Don't be surprised if the latch won't move. I have seen a couple of car models that don't adjust from the outside of the door and I have never seen a 95 Chev p'up door. I can only go by my 99 Burb.

    Loosen the two, or sometimes three machine screws (mine are torx) on the door around the latch just a teensy bit and the latch should slide around a little. If the door is too loose move the latch a tiny little bit probably only a 1/16" or less will be enough, toward the outside of the door. Watch it. It doesn't take much to get the door really tight and be very difficult to open. Keep it centered on the horizontal marks or it won't hit the latch pin at the right height. The alignment marks will help you get it back to the original position if you get it too far out of whack. This will affect the way it aligns with the cab panel.

    If you adjust the latch, and then replace the seal, the door is either going to be too tight or won't even close far enough to throw the latch closed, so you'll have to adjust it again. If you are going to get new seals just wait until they are in to find out if you need to mess with the latch.

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