1997 Yukon Makes noise

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by vali, Sep 23, 2007.

  1. vali

    vali New Member

    Hi Everyone! I have a 97 Yukon and it just recently started to make this loud and annoying sound when I drive about 30 - 40 mph. I pulled over immediately and checked underneath the Yukon to see if anything was stuck..nothing. I turned on the ENGINE and pressed on the accelerator WHILE I was in (P)ark just to check if the sound comes back and it didn't. I only hear the sound when I am driving. ONLY when I am driving I hear the sound and feel a little Vibration coming from underneath the YUKON. Other than that it runs smoothly before the 30-40 mph. Steering feels fine.
    ........I went out side to take a look under the YUKON after THE RAIN. I just started to look around to see if anything was loose, missing, or broke. I took a couple of photos of this part that I turned with my hand and I heard the sound that I heard when I am driving, JUST not as LOUD! Any Suggestions?

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  2. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

    That would be the U-Joint. Get under the vehicle and grab the driveshaft and shake it back and forth/up and down. If it has play, the U-Joints are bad. Also that shrieking sound is a tell-tale sign that they are bad.

    Not that hard to replace. Go to Harbor freight and buy a U-Joint tool (+/- $15.00) and its a snap. The U-Joints (you need two) are abou (+/- $20.00/piece).

    If you need additional advice on how to do this, let me know.
     
  3. joker23

    joker23 New Member

    Wish I would have read this last month. I had both U-joints replaced at the dealer...60 a piece and ~200 for labor. I only have one vehicle to use for transportation to/from work, so I don't usually have as much time for research and troubleshooting as I would like. And you are spot on about the shrieking. As soon as I pulled into the service bay the tech knew what was wrong.
     
  4. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

    Yeah, I've been offroading for a very long time, and I've just about broken every drivetrain part that is out there.

    Form my experience with my '76 Cj, I have 3/4 ton axels on it and they are actually overkill for for the vehicle, but I'm just happy knowing that the only weak point on my setup is the U-Joints.

    Anyway, they are somewhat of a pain in the a$$ to replace (laying down on the driveway) but its not too bad of a job.

    $200 for labor -- that why I never take any vehicle to the "stealership"!
     
  5. vali

    vali New Member

    YES! I would appreciate all the help you can give!!!
     
  6. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

    Ok, I'll give you a writeup, but right now, I'm at work, so I'll do it this afternoon.
     
  7. vali

    vali New Member

    Thank you.
     
  8. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

    Ok, here it is:

    What you will need:

    * Tape (duct or electrical)
    * Needle-nose OR snap ring pliers
    * Flat-Head screwdriver
    * 3/4" socket
    * Really big hammer
    * C-Clamp
    * Carb or Brake Cleaner.
    * A friend or two

    1. Remove the straps or bolts that hold your driveshaft to the tranny, (transfer case if its a 4x4) and pinion.

    2. Carefully remove the shaft so that you don't knock the caps off of the exposed ends.

    3. Use electrical tape to secure the caps on the end that you will not be working on.

    4. Remove the caps that are open (the ones not seated on the yoke) All you need to do is pull on them and they slide right off.

    5. Rest the yoke against something solid so that one of the two remaining caps are facing upward.

    6. Use snap ring pliers or needle nose pliers to remove the snap ring that holds the cap in place. Do this to both sides.

    7. Place a 3/4" socket on one of the caps and hit it with a big hammer. MAKE SURE THAT THE YOKE IS BACK ON SOMETHING SOLID AND THE OTHER CAP HAS ROOM TO MOVE OUT OF THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE YOKE.

    8. Keep Hammering until the cap breaks through to the inside of the yoke. This will make the opposite cap move out of the yoke as well, but not completely.

    9. Remove the cap that you just hammered on by twisting the U-Joint until the cap is easily pulled out from the inside of the yoke.

    10. Move the U-Joint around some more and the U-Joint should come out completely. The remainig cap will easily come out with pliers or with your fingers.

    11. Clean the yoke with either carb or brake cleaner, and make sure that it is in good shape.

    12. Line up the new U-Joint so that it will easily fit in the yoke.

    13. Remove the appropriate caps and make sure not to lose the needle bearings.

    14. Insert the U-Joint into the yoke.

    15. Place one cap on one end and move the U-joint into the cap so that you don't shift of lose the needle bearings.

    16. Place the yoke back on the solid object and tap on the new cap with the hammer while making sure that the U-Joint stays within the cap you are tapping on. YOU DO NOT NEED TO POUND IT COMLETELY IN PLACE.

    17. Turn the yoke over and place the other cap into the yoke and lightly tap it with the hammer so that you don't lose the needle bearing on this side.

    18. Use a "C" clamp to compress both clamps into place.

    19. Use the 3/4" socket and the hammer to seat them properly so that you can install the new snap rings.

    20. Install the snap rings. Use a flat-head screwdriver to to make sure that they are in their proper place.

    21. Install the driveshaft the same way that you took it out!

    If any one else has a different method, or can clarify something, please do. Also, this is about a 30 minute job.
    Let us know how it turns out!
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2007
  9. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

  10. cao88c

    cao88c Rockstar

    BTW you need 2
     

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