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1999 k1500 u-joint?

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by janikphoto, Jan 24, 2012.

  1. janikphoto

    janikphoto Rockstar 3 Years 100 Posts

    I have developed a metallic squeaking/scraping sound that is coming from the back. I haven't fully investigated, but I think it's either the rear u-joint or something in the rear brakes. I can make the noise louder when I press on the gas, which tells me it is definitely something spinning on the drivetrain - as opposed to exhaust, heat shield or something that doesn't really move/spin when the gas is pressed. So, what do you all think I should do to verify? And the u-joints don't have any oil, grease or other maintenance procedure I am neglecting, do they?
  2. vncj96

    vncj96 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    no upkeep for ujoints just replace when needed. first get under and look at them, chances are they are original which you will be able to tell as the orginals are plastic injected for retention as opossed to an actual clip style retainer. You should still be able to see a little plastic knob sticking out of the holder for the ujoint itself. There could even be needle bearing sticking out which then you kow for sure they need to be replaced. You can also try turning the driveshaft while you are under there and see if there is alot of slack. Or you could put the rear end on jackstands and put it in gear and either you or a buddy can be in the area to actually hear where the noise is coming from. also if you get to a flat street with no traffic let the truck roll at 10mpg and basically kick the gas pedal (enough to get the engine to spin faster but without actually forcing the truck to take off) you may hear a metallic clank coming form the rear end, this is a telltale that its the ujoint.

    If they are original you have to heat the plastic to get it to come out, you will need a torch to do this (a good amount actually will come out when you get it hot enough). And its surprising how strong that plastic is, not even using a heavy duty c-clamp with a socket could push the joint out of the driveshaft. Your replacements joints are federal mogul brand and use a clip retainer, they are like 15-25 per joint.
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  3. janikphoto

    janikphoto Rockstar 3 Years 100 Posts

    It's a burb. And, I am pretty sure they are original. I don't remember seeing any retainer clips when I was under there before, just black plastic. Maybe I'll get a shop to change them out. I know it's not a hard job, but this seems like something I don't feel like wasting a weekend doing...
  4. vncj96

    vncj96 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I did my rear ujoint on my burb, i had never attempted it and had no idea about the plastic retainers either, it took me a couple hours but had aI known I just needed to torch the plastic out, i could have had it done in a half hour. You might as well have the front one done at the same time. If you do do it yourself just make sure you get the rear end up in the air so no fluid comes out when you pull the driveshaft from the tail of the trranny/transfer case area
  5. janikphoto

    janikphoto Rockstar 3 Years 100 Posts

    I've actually got a new gasket and fluid for the rear, anyway. I just haven't done it, because I didn't have an rtv sealant to put around the bolts. Besides, those bastards were on pretty tight and I didn't have the energy to break them loose in the cold weather.

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