I know I don't post often, but I'm just about finished installing the TSM kit in my Suburban and I figured I'd post a how-to since the Drum-Over-Hub version doesn't seem to have any references online (at least that I could find before I started this). I haven't completely finished yet (have to finish bleeding them tonight) so I can't review how they feel until at least tomorrow, but rest assured, I'll provide a complete review then. The kit I purchased was the *complete* TSM kit with new e-brake calipers (with the brackets) along with the stainless flex lines and the e-brake spacers. Total cost was $825 shipped to the East Coast. (I'm getting no renumeration for this, fwiw) First off, remove all existing stuff in the normal way: Wheels, drums and all drum brake hardware. I didn't document this part because it's in the various manuals. Then, remove the 8 bolts that connect the hubs to the axles and pull out the axles. After that, you need to remove the hubs by removing the hub nuts. These nuts should not be on tight so you don't *have* to get the tool if you don't want. (You would need it if you are replacing the bearings). First pry off the clip that is holding the key in place. Then use a magnet to remove the key. You might need to use a punch and give the nut a slight rap so that the key is loose. Then remove the nut. Again, it should not be heavily pre-loaded. A light rap with a hammer and punch would be the most you should need. Now you have the hub off: Then, I wrapped up the hub surface with masking tape to prevent any dings, damage or paint from getting on them. - - - Updated - - - Next, cut (or remove, but cutting is soo much faster, and you're going to need to resize it later anyways) the brake line going into the back of the wheel cylinder. I used a little air body saw and it took about 15 seconds. Then, use a big hammer (I used a 4 lb sledge) to remove the old drum backing plate. This is bigger and heavier than I expected it to be. This is a good time to brush and scrape any loose rust from this area: And give it a coat of some underbody paint. Then, the bolt first bracket onto the same surface as the old backing plate using the same screws. Note the orientation of mine. You'll see that I ended up installing my caliper at the bottom of the hub. This was not where I originally wanted it.. I wanted it about 90 degrees (a little less than that, actually) clockwise towards the rear... But the OE E-brake cables are not long enough on both sides and the e-brake bushings that TSM sells (for the extra $20) are too straight anyways. To mount the calipers towards the back would really require a custom e-brake cable that bends out of the way of the axle and is about 3-4" longer. If you do a lot of offroading, this would probably be worth it. Next, mount the additional bracket pieces. NOTE: DO NOT USE THE SPACERS AS INDICATED IN TSM'S INSTRUCTIONS. The spacers will make the spacing incorrect - at least they did for my truck (99 K2500 with G80 option). I did not tighten the bolts nuts yet.. Temporarily install the caliper to the brackets. This will make sure the bracket arms are spaced exactly correct (there's just enough play that I think if you don't do this you could end up fighting the caliper bolts later). Now, tighten the bracket arm nuts/bolts. - - - Updated - - - Next up is preparing the E-brake connections. First, adjust the bracket on the caliper so that it is as angled as far away from the axle as possible. I did this by using a wrench and just taking up the clearance as much as possible. Then, use a dremel to slightly enlarge the bore hole in the bracket. You don't need too much here.. Just enough to let us tweak the spacer away from the axle. This is the *worst* part of the whole job - removing the existing springs on the e-brake cable. I used a dremel cutting wheel. I held the spring with some dykes and the scored (without breaking through) one side of the whole spring. Then I rotated it 180 degrees and cut through it. Then, I could use the dykes to bend/remove each ring remaining after the cut. 1st spring took me probably 30 minutes... 2nd spring was probably closer to 15. Now, you need to 'massage' the spacer a little. Again, this is where custom e-brake cables would make this install a lot better, not the least of which would be having the caliper towards the rear of the truck. I used a vise and a long steel tube cheater to put just a slight bend in the the stainless spacers. I did have to rework the end a little bit after bending so that the end fit into the bracket hole with a little play and so that the e-brake cable nipple could fit through the spacer.