2000 Silverado 5.3 Won't Start..

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Velocity1, Sep 6, 2010.

  1. Velocity1

    Velocity1 Rockstar

    Parked my truck 3 days ago. Went to restart it today and no go. All solenoids operational, fuel, ecm, ignition, and starter at the power box under the hood. Acts like the starter simply dropped dead. Battery is spec. Even tried a new one. Thought maybe a GM security system issue? Tried 3 different keys. Same results. Starter doesn't even click. Anybody got any ideas? Never saw this one coming.
    Thanks, V1
  2. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Me personally i would pull the starter and take it to a local parts store to get it tested. That will tell you if it is bad or not.
  3. Velocity1

    Velocity1 Rockstar

    I've been told I might have to reset the Passlock system. How do I do this ? Would at least like to try this first as the starter was performing flawlessly and I had no other symptoms prior to the "no start" issue I have now. The truck electronics perform like they always have. It just won't start, ie, won't crank at all.
  4. lildino383

    lildino383 New Member

    Doesn't a Passlock system have a Security light in the instrument panel? If it's lit, I'd agree it's a possibility. How about your cable connections....any corrosion?
  5. rmck490

    rmck490 New Member

    I thought Passlock only discontinued fuel flow. The engine should still crank in that case. Sounds like a starting circuit problem to me. I've attached the wiring schematic for reference. Besides the battery, you could have a problem with a fuse, a relay, or the ignition switch. Clean the battery posts and check the ground wire on the engine block also.

    Attached Files:

  6. Velocity1

    Velocity1 Rockstar

    Ignition and starter relay function checked and operating ok. Battery and connections are new.

    2 things....starter doesn't make a sound when you try to crank. Can hear relay in power station under hood click when you key ignition. Fuel pump runs, And, when you key ignition to on position, "Battery light" illuminates, flashes once and stays on. Same spot where IP would read "Security". Prior to this happening, no problems with the electrical system what so ever. Remotes still work as normal. Starter just won't crank.

    I've tried several times to run "Re-learn" procedure, but security light won't illuminate. The only time it comes on is when you first get in the truck it flashes, which would indicate to me that it's functioning like it's supposed to ??

    Where does the starter get its ground from? I've verified that the "purple wire" coming out of the under hood power station is getting 12 volts when you key the ignition. According to the wiring diagram, the purple wire supplies the starter with 12 volts when key is in start position.

    I just can't imagine the starter dropping dead and not even making a sound when you key the ignition. I guess it happens.. Any thoughts?

    I'm stuck unless I can trouble shoot the starter on the truck for proper function? If I can do that and prove the starter is bad, I'll change it. Picture work showing starter removal would be appreciated too if anyone's got it.

    Thanks for the help this far...V1

    ---------- Post added at 07:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 AM ----------


    Where might I get picture work showing how starter bolts up? Would be helpful going into the job of removing it. I think I'm headed in that direction if it's determined that my Passlock system is not to blame.
    Thanks. V1
  7. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    The starter is on the passenger side as you know. I looked for a while for a picture of this and couldnt really find anything. However it should be just 4bolts that hold it to the tranny, and undo the wiring and you are done. Sorry i cant offer more help.
  8. Velocity1

    Velocity1 Rockstar

    Went out this morning with a plan of attack....figured I had ruled out the Passlock system malfunction. My focus was gonna be on the neutral safety switch and the starter itself. Just for grins...I put the key in the ignition and low and behold it cranked and fired right up....Ok, so now I'm thinking maybe a dead spot in the starter. I didn't want to disturb too many things at one time, as it would be difficult to determine what I had done to fix the porblem.

    I crawled under and figured I'd check the first simple thing first, the master ground from the battery to the block just above the oil pan on the driver's side. It took a good turn and a half to tighten it up! Loose ground !! I've since washed and waxed it, fired it up and shut it down a dozen times and I'm confident I've found the culprit. Love the easy stuff!

    Hope my experience helps someone else out there. If you can eliminate the Passlock system malfuction, ECM/Ignition relays, Battery connections and grounds should be your next check to ensure everything is tight. Simple stuff first.

    Thanks to all who chimed in with helpful advice. It's appreciated.

  9. 05-burb_td

    05-burb_td New Member

    I have a 2005 suburban 5.3 that has a problem that occurs about every 3 months. I go to start the truck and all of the electronics/electrical accessories (windows, door locks) are dead. No cranking from the engine, the 12V accessory outlets have power.
    I put on my portable jump starter and viola...engine starts. Let it run and charge the battery and we are good to go until the next time. Essentially, the battery had drained in a matter of 2 hrs, after my wife had dropped of the kids at school.
    Does this also sound like a loose connection? I took the truck to two independent shops, had the battery and charging system checked. All ok.
    Any thoughts??

    Thanks, Tom
  10. Velocity1

    Velocity1 Rockstar

    Check all connections first. Can't emphasize this enough. My history of problems started with loose battery connections, (see my old post about "power outtage"). Possibility that when you put the charger on the battery you're creating an "arc over" that temporarily remakes the bad connection in the electrical system. I would suggest getting into the secondary fuse panel under the hood and methodically pulling, testing and cleaning the fuses of any corrosion. Just my .02 but you've got to start somewhere until someone who has experienced this type of intermittent problem hands you the silver bullet..

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