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2000 Suburban fuel pump replacement

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by Bill Truck, Jul 27, 2009.

  1. Bill Truck

    Bill Truck New Member

    My 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD fuel pump is now making noise (wife notices it). The car has 135.000 miles.
    Also the fuel gauge is not working properly - it will go back and forth between empty and what appears to be the correct reading.

    I don't relish dropping the tank to do this job. So...I am thinking of replacing the pump module by cutting an access hole directly over the tank.

    Anyone here ever done this job by cutting an access hole in the floor?


    Any history with this would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Suburban Parts
    Chevy OEM
  2. SusieG

    SusieG New Member

    Hello;
    I have a 2000 Tahoe with 126,000 miles. On the first day of our road trip from Seattle to Canadian Rockies the tahoe fuel pump died just before we go to Canada. Prior to that for about a month the fuel guage jumped around, when I filled the tank the low fuel light came on until about 1/4 tank used then the guage was ok.
    Well I am no mechanic, was towed to a dealer and plunked down almost $1200.00; that was the first day of vacation. The rest of the trip was fantastic.
    Good luck, hope you can fix it yourself, I believe the parts are rather inexpensive.
  3. bill190

    bill190 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Hummm...

    That sounds like a good idea!

    But if I were doing it, I think I would want to drop the tank before cutting to avoid accidentally cutting into any lines. Also to make sure my access hole was exactly where the pump was. And was a large enough hole. (Unless I could be sure I was not going to cut any lines.)

    You might want to poke around a wrecking yard and look at the areas above gas tanks in the cars. See if there is a access cover above a tank you could use. Then you would have an already made cover and maybe with a weather seal to boot!
  4. unplugged

    unplugged Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Never done that on a burb, but I did the same thing on a Dodge Caravan. Way easier. I didn't want to drop the rear end to drop the tank, so I used a nibbler to cut the panel opening. Just like the Caravan you will have to pull the seats and carpet. The carpet will help with hiding the sheet metal mod.

    You should be able to get visual above the tank to make sure there isn't any electrical or gas line in the way. Then it is just a matter of cosmetics. A tape measure should put you in the ball park as far as where to cut. This is the auto version of "orthoscopic" surgery. Remember a smaller opening will keep the "scar" to a minimum, but it might make the work harder. I used some sheet metal screws and liberal amounts of silicone to secure and weather seal the oversized sheet metal panel I cut to cover the opening.

    If you decide to go ahead, take some pics and post them here.
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2009
  5. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I think you'll be happier just dropping the tank. And it probably won't take any longer. Start spraying your straps and fittings with Fluid Film or PB now, do them every night for a few days. Run the tank down as low as you dare. A little help and it won't be too bad.
  6. vncj96

    vncj96 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    It REALLY only takes 45-60min to drop it, replace it and strap it back into place, as long as there is minimal gas it is soooo easy, even for a first timer.

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