2004 sierra brake line fix help

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by dave13net, Jan 3, 2014.

  1. dave13net

    dave13net Rockstar

    hello,was driving this morning hit brakes,went to floor.(dic) says check brake system,now i know these are notorious for the lines going out of master cylinder down at the hard bend at frame to rott out.i did look, and fluid is wet at the frame below lines. to make a long story short (ha ha)does anyone have an estimate on how much this would cost to repair?? friend of mine had his done a couple of years ago, and cost him $900... any help would be appreciated. thanks :no: and in pa ssssnnoooww
  2. fugitive

    fugitive Member

    I just replaced the same section on my old mans 04 Silverado, section of line and fittings $20.00. That area was the only rusted part of the lines. If you go the same route your friend did it requires removing and or moving fuel lines along the frame rail in a very hard to get to inner frame rail and releasing the mount clips that hold all the lines routed to the engine bay which most likely lead to more line ruptures later on! Your choice.
  3. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida Rockstar 4 Years 100 Posts

    One thing my father taught me while I was growing up learning mechanics on his 57 Chevy, never go cheap on brake and steering repairs.
  4. dave13net

    dave13net Rockstar

    ok, went out and checked.looking in on drivers side front wheel well,4 lines bunched on frame heading to back of truck,second line in is the one that is leaking just below braided part.checked line up to master cylinder,partly braided line up to back lower fitting on, proportioning valve.. line goes back to middle of truck to a box with about 5 or 6 lines in it. can anyone tell me if someone sells these lines separate,or just in a kit. i can do this myself if i can get the right parts. thanks
  5. j cat

    j cat Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    you will need some fittings for the brake line, brake line, tubing cutter and a flare tool for 45deg and 37 deg flares.

    gm uses 37 deg the sae fittings use the 45 deg.

    the driver side caliper lines , line running next to the fuel tank to the rear brakes, and the lines with the re-enforcement coils over the brake line under the driver seat frame rail area rust out/leak.

    cut out the leaking section and install a new line.

    GM went cheap on these brake lines . they are made with chinese steel.

    If you wish to have this done properly and never have this done again they have kits all made up for these vehicles made with s/steel lines... GM would never do it . but it will last a very long time and cost you a good amount to replace all the defective GM quality with these.

    the line to the rear brakes with some rust belt vehicles occurs every 3 years.
  6. dave13net

    dave13net Rockstar

    ok, thanks j cat. did notice looking online for s.s. line kit that the kit doesn't have the braided s. steel part just after the prop. valve.also i need the truck now and the line goes from prop. valve to the abs box underneath. probably a dumb question but, on a straight piece of line are the fittings gonna fit? was gonna get a section of line from parts store and do it that way for now. i do have a flaireing tool and have done it before,many times
  7. j cat

    j cat Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    get line from store . buy some sae fittings to connect your new lines together so you can set in place a repair . use a 45 deg flare with these. on the connection to the GM component like the caliper or the abs valve body re-use the GM fitting and then make a gm 37 deg flare for those connections.

    I would buy a 20 ft roll of brake line and replace what looks like crap. thats what I did .

    some repair shops leave the old bad line in place and then just run the replacement next to it . I just cut out my bad lines after I made the repair.

    when you cut out the bad section use tubing cutter only. then plug the hole so little fluid leaks out. use a short rubber hose plugged on one end to reduce fluid losses.

    do one section at a time . the worst that can happen is you may have to get the truck bled by a brake shop with a brake bleeder scan tool so the abs gets activated to remove air if you loose to much fluid.
  8. dave13net

    dave13net Rockstar

    ok, thanks. i'm gonna replace whole line from prop. valve to abs box do you know what size line it is,I forgot to measure when i was under it, prob. 5/16 or 3/16 . have to get under again to measure
  9. fugitive

    fugitive Member

    You know sometimes there is no better choice than to splice! And this is most definately one of them unless you track a whole line in a different location down the frame rail as suggested!
  10. dave13net

    dave13net Rockstar

    ok,gonna do whole line to be safe. going to buy stainless kit in near future

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