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2007 GMC Savana 1500 Brake Pedal

Discussion in 'Lifted & Offroad Suspension' started by GMC07, Mar 21, 2011.

  1. GMC07

    GMC07 New Member

    Hi, I'm new here and I need some help. The brake pedal on my GMC Savana seems a bit too soft and has quite a lot of "dead travel" until the brakes engage. My question is if there could be a problem as to why the pedal is so soft, and if there are any possible brake upgrades to get the van to stop in a shorter distance(i noticed it takes a longer distance to stop). Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2011
  2. frozenrotors

    frozenrotors New Member

    GMC Savanah - 2007


    The first question I have. Is how many miles are on the vehicle, and when was the last time the brakes were inspected or replaced? As for the stopping distance. large gains can be made by simply replacing the brake pads with a more aggressive compound. I sell Cryogenically treated brake rotors and have recommendations on pad compounds specific to your driving habits, conditions and vehicle use. Provide me with that information, and I'd be happy to point you in the right direction.
    The rotors, on the other hand. Are really the 'core' to your brake system. Once they have been treated to wear longer, resist 'warping' and withstand the repeated heat cycling. A better suited pad can be used with out sacrificing rotor wear.

    Hope this helps.

    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 20, 2011
  3. GM Customer Service

    GM Customer Service Rockstar 4 Years 500 Posts

    I would have to agree with the previous post that the best place to start would be to have the brakes checked. If you are still experiencing an issue or feel that something else may be going on here, please feel free to contact me by private message. Thank you.

    Tricia, GM Customer Service.
  4. GMC07

    GMC07 New Member

    The van has 16000 miles and the last time they were checked was about a month ago.
  5. frozenrotors

    frozenrotors New Member


    I would start with having the entire brake system bled. (removing air from the lines, calipers etc.) If that proves unsuccessful then move on to replacing the pads and possibly the rotors. Rotors are checked by measuring the thickness of the area that the pad grips during braking (swept area). The Factory Service manual will tell you what the 'minimum' thickness should be, before replacement is recommended. I WOULD NOT recommend having the rotors 'cut', or 'turned' on a brake lathe. I know there are those that will disagree, however that proceedure will most definatley require you replace the rotors again in the not to distant future.
    Simply put. Removing metal from the rotor will inhibit it's ability to dissipate heat and will cause the pads, and the rotors to over heat. This causes a phenomenon known as 'warping'.
    To address the 'shorter stopping' distance issue. I'd recommend replacing the pads with something more aggressive, such as the Hawk 'LTS' compound. It's designed specifically for the weight, conditions and heat range of your vehicle. These fall between a 'Fleet Pad' and a 'High Performance Street' compound. They provide shorter stopping distances, have zero-fade, and give off minimum dust. I use them on my 4200 lb. SUV.

    Hope this helps.
    Feel free to PM me or via email
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 20, 2011

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