I LOVE MY AWD TRAVERSE - BUT THE HVAC APPEARS TO BE AN OVERLY EXPENSIVE SYSTEM WITH CHEAP COMPOENTS. BACKGROUND So the wife was driving the Traverse and a couple of weeks ago she said that the a/c quit working and the light would just flash and then go out. No AC light, no compressor sound (which is quiet in the first place) and no cold air. TESTING So I got into looking at it. The light blinking three times means that the a/c compressor has been cycling on/off too many times, so in order to save the compressor it shuts down operation. IMHO, this is a great nanny system. If it's just a ruptured hose, it can save a $600 compressor plus labor. ADDING FREON So, I got the A/C Pro freon + sealer kit from my local O'Reilly auto parts and put quite a bit of the can in. Pressure in the low-port line got up to about 75 psi or so pretty quickly, which means there are no leaks on that side of the compressor. COMPRESSOR CYCLED ON Adding this pressure allowed the compressor to cycle on. Pressure dropped to about 15 psi and then dropped quickly. I had my kid in the car and had him keep hitting the button about 10 seconds after it went off. I kept this going until the can was empty. GETTING ACCESS Now what sucks is they put the low-port hvac valve SO LOW behind the grill that you have to get the longest kit possible just to get access w/o taking off the grill. I mean, who designed this? I had a very difficult time articulating the bottle so that I could get it empty, in fact I turned it around and around so that it started to leak freon from the bottle. very cold. PSI ROSE AND DROPPED QUICKLY I got it finally to stick and hold about 25 psi of freon, but it was NOT cold at all!!! This lasted for a few days and then driving (without using the AC) I tested it and it's back to blinking. QUESTIONS I'm NOT a HVAC expert by any stretch of the imagination! Help a fella out will you? If this is a simple line-leak, how can I tell? From reading online, there probably are 10,000+ ac system failures like this (that's a statistical guestimate) ... because I was able to empty the bottle and it still showed low, that's proof that it's a leak, right? Some people are reporting their fix was a leaks in one of the compressor seals. Others are reporting a return line leak. How can I tell? Since I was able to pressurize the system before the compressor engaged, that means the front lines are probably not the leak. Since it seems to have lost pressure quickly, that indicates a more major leak, right?