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'93 Jimmy running very rough

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by BadBeerBreath, May 23, 2011.

  1. BadBeerBreath

    BadBeerBreath New Member

    Hey guys, first time GM truck owner and new to the site here.

    I just bought a 1993 Jimmy SLE with the 4.3 vortec. It was a deal I just couldn't say no to. The truck is in absolutely mint condition inside and out....almost show room with only 75,000 km (46,000 miles). It was an estate sale, the original owner recently passed away. It obviously wasn't used much, but apparently used somewhat regularly so it wasn't parked for an extended length of time, other than the last 5 months or so since the owner passed away.

    Anyhow it ran fine when I looked and subsequently bought it. But after driving it for a couple hours around town it slowly started coughing and sputtering, progressively getting worse to the point it would stall at lights if not keeping revs up in neutral. I took it home and parked it overnight. The next morning I put a code reader on it and came up with codes 32 and 43, in that order. Now I read the definition of those codes, but before I head out and put a new egr valve on, I'm wondering if anyone with more experience than I could maybe steer me on the correct sequence of things to look at changing/fixing. Thanks for any help in advance.
  2. Badbrad469

    Badbrad469 Rockstar 100 Posts

    Take off the egr valve and see if it's got some carbon keeping it stuck open. U can clean it. If this is the motor with the "spider injector", they have problems with the carbon build up. They make a egr gasket that has a little screen that prevents this from happening. Hope this helps ya out
  3. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Welcome to the club, Breath.
  4. Crispyt

    Crispyt Rockstar 100 Posts

    Same code 32 on my truck and i have the same engine. caused the same problem. its either a vac leak or your purge solenoide is stuck open or closed. Mine was stuck open which is what yours i probably doing. I just took it out and kinda tapped it against something hard and it fixed it by freeing it up. (Cheap fix) try that it fixed mine or take it off and apply 12v to it and see if it clicks on and off. If not it needs to be replaced. Code 32 was something like EGR circut fault right? CHeck you vac lines and solenoid. Dont stess over it. Its an easy fix.
  5. BadBeerBreath

    BadBeerBreath New Member

    Thanks guys. Pulled the egr, it was stuck open. Cleaned it, put back on. Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pcv valve and fuel filter. Runs much better, but still not perfect. Runs quite ok on the road, but at highway speed I can feel a very slight surging, so slight as that you wouldn't probably tell as a passenger. Also coughing and sputtering often, (not always) while idling. It doesn't stall, but rpms drop quite a bit. No longer getting code 32, but still getting 43. Think changing out the knock sensor should be the next step?
  6. silveradotrailblazer

    silveradotrailblazer Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Try taking the throttlebody off and clean top and bottom with some Seafoam spray and a soft toothbrush. Don't use carb cleaner.
  7. BadBeerBreath

    BadBeerBreath New Member

    Changed out the knock sensors....code's gone and running nice now. As an added bonus the cruise control is now working! It wasn't working before, so I don't know why now. Could the ECM have been falsely detecting low voltage due to faulty knock sensor, so it shut down CC?
  8. Crispyt

    Crispyt Rockstar 100 Posts

    Usualy the CC wont work because of a bad brake switch or CC switch. Not sure why it started working now, but sometimes its best not to ask questions lol. Glad its working for you now

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