95 Silverado 350 dying intermittently at stop signs or lights

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by MauryFrench, Nov 10, 2013.

  1. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    Good day all.

    Yes I know, yet another variation on the dying engine, but maybe someone knows. It starts just fine when cold. I drive for a bit, then I can come to a stop and it will die. I can get it restarted by turning the key with the pedal to the floor. I have to rev and rev then drop in gear and move before it dies again. After a bit, I can come up to a stop light and it will stay running. Then it might misfire some while driving but stay running. Then at the next light it might die.

    I have to get it from Lake Whitney back to my house in Wylie tomorrow. Any thoughts? This may sound downright stupid but if I go disconnect the battery for a little bit will the computer reset and perhaps work better? Or will that make it worse?

    thanks in advance.
  2. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Loving the Outdoors Staff Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Sounds like a gas problem Maybe a clog in the filter or TB? Have you changed it or cleaned the TB in the past? Pump could also be low pressure..
  3. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    This is embarassing. I actually had to look up TB. So, how do I clean it? I am speaking about being in an auto parts store parking lot doing this. I remember with a good old fashioned carburetor I would have a spray can of carburetor cleaner that I am spraying in while the engine runs. Can I do the same thing with Fuel Injection?


  4. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    Mr. Enkeiavalanche, I just changed the Fuel filter and put a bottle of Lucas Upper valve lubricant and fuel injector cleaner in about 12 gallons of gas The Throttle Body seems to be operating normally; so I will wait on cleaning that as I am a tad wary of messing something up.

    The truck is running fine; but it will take a successful drive to work and back on Monday to declare the problem resolved.

    It was interesting; the color of the gas that came out of the old gas filter was not gas colored, so the change was a great idea. Thanks.

  5. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    Hello, all.

    My truck does not appear to be fixed. It will be the weekend before I can do any work. I will get some Throttle Body Cleaner and a soft brush as I have read others do and try and clean the throttle body.

    All that said, lets go back over. It will drive fine for a while; I did like a 15 mile round trip with no issues, then when I was taking my son to sonic I barely got it out of the alley. It will seen fine then just die at stop, or might even seem okay but die when accelerating from a stop. It will not restart unless I have the pedal to the floor, something that I thought went away with fuel injection. Once I do get it restarted it idles at about 1200 to 1400 RPM. It will usually be fine for a while.

    I have read in other posts about checking the fuel pressure. How do I do this, and will the obvious special tools I will need cost more than the trip to the mechanic? Lets say the fuel pressure is fine, what's next?

    I will check the EGR valve and related vacuum hoses. As I look thru the Haynes manual there are a plethora of valves and gadgets that can be problematic; I bet you guys know a bunch more than I do.

    Thanks in advance,
  6. branden

    branden New Member

    What's the year cause my truck was doing that and it was I IAC valve and I put a new one and a new clip and now she runs great
  7. leb01amg

    leb01amg New Member

    Possibly your IAC valve which controls your idle at low speeds, AC engagement, and when braking. It's on the side of the TBIs and cost about $60 bucks.
  8. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    Thanks, gents. That's two votes for IAC valve. I guess I will see about getting one and installing it. Now if the %^*#%^ weather will cooperate this weekend.
  9. MauryFrench

    MauryFrench Rockstar 100 Posts

    Hello everyone. Let me tell you where I am. I changed the IAC valve and that did not solve the problem. It finally showed a check engine light as it was dying and OReilly told me the code was the temperature sensor. I changed the temperature sensor. It always seems better, but then still chokes up after a bit with the same symptoms. I changed the pigtail to the IAC because the old one was brittle and falling apart. When I changed the clip I also cleaned the throttle body, including taking the IAC back out and cleaning in that hole. It hasn't choked down and died on me since then; however now it can be a bugger to start on a cold morning. I get it started, and it gets to a good place and seems okay. Remember I can drive 20 or 30 mile trips and have no problems for a couple of days, then it will start acting up again. Now it is hard to start but once started hasn't died on me.

    It started exhibiting a new issue; After driving a while the rpms will shoot up as in a downshift but the truck doesn't move any faster, then will stabilize as if it was shifting after passing someone, if that makes sense. It does this a few times.

    So, hard to start, and will downshift at highway speeds. Ideas? I know I need to put a heat riser pipe from the manifold up to the breather so that valve will open sooner, but I can't see that as being a problem.


    HANX TANX New Member

    Hi Maury. I had the same problem in a 1990. It turned out to be the throttle position sensor. Italso is located on the throttle body. It needs to have a slight adjustement to correct the issue.

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