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'97 2500 HD Steering shake under braking

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by roberth1970, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. roberth1970

    roberth1970 New Member

    Hi,

    I've just picked up a '97 GMC Suburban 2500 HD (454 engine), which gets steering shake and pulsing under braking. The truck has had little use over the last 10 years (30k in total) and has 106k miles on. This is my first truck, and I'm more used to small European front wheel drive stick shifts of 15 years ago. This is a different world.

    I knew it had worn pitman arm and idler arms, which I'll get done and the tires are shot, but I'm thinking that this is a warped disc issue. Since I was planning to upgrade to the powerstop discs anyway I'm happy to replace them. Looking into this further they are the 8 lug wheels so I'm going to have to fight with the 15mm bolts and pull the hub. I've read lots of horro stories about these, I've got a 15mm impact socket, a breaker bar and a can of penetrating oil, so here's hoping.

    I have two questions:-

    1) Am I likely to be right about the discs? Anything else that I should look at? - there is no wobble except under braking.
    2) With 106k should I just put in new hubs while I've got it apart? It looks like the Timken SP580302/3 (LH/RH) are the correct parts.

    Thanks

    Robert
  2. TrailLeadr

    TrailLeadr Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    My first thought when you mention it is warped rotors.

    Personally I would only change the hub if I suspected it needed it, but since you're going to be down there and are willing to buy it now, you might be better off doing it now and save yourself the trouble later.
    That Timken part you listed is coming up as a direct fit for your vehicle, so you should be good to go.
  3. USAF-Suburban

    USAF-Suburban Rockstar 100 Posts

    Agree with the above post. Sounds like warped rotor(s). You won't see any wobble or shaking unless you're braking. I actually just changed both my front ones about 6 months ago.
  4. roberth1970

    roberth1970 New Member

    Well, discs, pads, hubs and penetrating oil are all on their way. I've got a 15mm impact socket and a breaker bar, so I should have a shot at moving the 15mm bolts.

    Just need to find a day to do the work.

    Should I anti-seize the 15mm's and the 36mm when i reassemble?

    Thanks.
  5. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner Gold Member 1000 Posts

    I think the anti seize kinda depends on where you live and rust issues. I dont ever use it where I am. Alot of spindle nuts now are single use as a side note for the hub. I agree with the others on the shake most likely being rotors and unless the suspension parts are really bad you wont typically get shake from them (badly worn you might)
  6. roberth1970

    roberth1970 New Member

    Hmm, so I'm in CA, and away from the ocean, so not a lot of rust issues.

    Should I plan on replacing the axle nuts? Is there an easy way to get the GM part number?

    Thanks
  7. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner Gold Member 1000 Posts

    I picked up my last set of axle nuts at oreillyauto so should be carried by most part stores. Easiest way to get gm part number is to call the dealer. I think the axle nut was like 8 or 9 dollars.
  8. roberth1970

    roberth1970 New Member

    I've broken free the axle nuts (had to break out the big wrench) and the 15mm bolts have had a few treatments with penetrating oil. Tonight is the night!

    Well at least to start.
  9. 08_rado_rocker

    08_rado_rocker Member 2 Years 500 Posts

    good luck!

    And IMO: Anti seize is a no-no on anything pertaining to braking/wheel components. Let it seize up rather than back out. Replace that anti seize compound with loctite:rofl:

    - - - Updated - - -

    and yes, warped discs are the culprit. I change my discs usually every 6 months haha... I guess that's what i get for driving like I'm in an autocross race every time I start my truck.
  10. roberth1970

    roberth1970 New Member

    15mm bolts came off fairly easily on the side I've started, the 35mm was ok too.

    But the rotor is not budging :-(

    I've hit it and sprayed it and hit it some more.

    Anyone got any top tips?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Top tip - get a bigger hammer!

    I think I'll replace the caliper too while I'm at it. Any brand to use or avoid?

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