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97 c-1500 solid/flashing engine light

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by GeoLow97, Nov 29, 2013.

  1. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    I have a 97 GMC with the 5.0 5-speed. The other morning, we had a cold snap. The truck ran fine on the way to work. I let it idla for 10 minutes several hours later,everything was fine. Then in the afternoon, when I started the truck to go home from work, Igot a check engine light and the truck ran rough. Above about 2500 rpm, the light flashes. When I return to low rpm it comes on solid. I had it scanned and the #1 cylinder was misfiring. My guess, condensation in the distributor. I replaced cap,rotor,wires&plugs.They needed it BAD! Light went off .Truck smoothed out. About 3 minutes into test drive, it returned doing the exact same thing, but the truck is still running smooth. Any guesses?
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  2. fugitive

    fugitive New Member

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    Having basically the same issue but my code is throwing a random cylinder mis-fire but she runs smooth as silk!
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  3. Dana W

    Dana W Member

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    Sometimes the system has to go through a few start/stop cycles before the error code will clear out. The alternative is to have the code(s) erased, maybe at Autozone.
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  4. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    Curious...isn't it?! Alliance, eh? I'm from just north of Y-town! Moved down here bout 2 1/2 years ago. Gonna be 65 degrees today!

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    Thanks Dana! I'll give that a try..make sure all my connections are secure ...give it some time and if all else fails try a trip to Auto Zone!
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  5. fugitive

    fugitive New Member

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    Yea! yea it's gonna warm up some today might reach 30 but Mounts playing so that a plus!
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  6. poncho62

    poncho62 Member

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    Did you delete the code out of the ECM?...with OBD2, you do it with the scanner
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  7. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    Hmm, no , I did not. Feels like it is running slightly rough again. And the light is still switching from solid to flashing with an increase in engine speed and returning to solid whene it goes back to near idle. Did scan it again and the only thing I'm getting is #1 cylinder misfire. Think it may be the #1 port on the spider injector? I remeber a while back hearing of someone having similar troubles and it turned out to be some sensor or something on the fuel return line or possibly at the tank??? Regardless, I gave it a shot of Lucas injector cleaner. We'll see if it clears up. Never had much luck with stuff like that personally. Thank you all for the suggestions! Keep 'em coming!!!

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    Oh, and I was told that I can't replace 1 injector. That I have to replace the entire spider. At about $400! Is this true?
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  8. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member

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    I'm betting the cylinder one spider leg went bad or came unplugged under the intake. We just went through this with my buddies 98 350
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  9. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    Thank you! Did he have to replace the whole kit and kaboodle or was he able to replace leg?

    By the way, nice Suburban! Had a '90 4WD loaded 1/2 ton. Loved it . Got nicknamed the "Magic Bus":rofl:
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  10. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member

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    Depends in what setup you have. Most I've seen, the individual legs can be replaced. My buddies just came unplugged from the particular cylinder.

    Thanks. I can't wait to get it running lamborgeeties are getting old lol
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  11. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    That would be VERY cool! I'll tear in to it this weekend. A point that was brought up to me this morning was that the reading that trips the blinking engine light is based on spark. Any thoughts? Was the light in the truck you worked on flashing?

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    Lamborgeeties?That's a new one! Lol!Ya , one day I'm gonna get another straight axel Sub , lift it 9" and run some 38X14.50's!
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2013
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  12. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member

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    now that I'm not 100% positive. I know when my boss took us fishing on his boat. He used his 2001 gmc 3500 with the 6.0. While were on the lake someone decided to cut the harness to one of his injectors causing his light to flash.

    Lol it was supposed to say lamborfeeties (walking)
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  13. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    .

    Lol it was supposed to say lamborfeeties (walking)[/QUOTE]

    :lol:AAAH The two shoe Cadillac! Gotcha! Yes! Driving is WAY better than walkin, especially when its in a GM truck!

    Think I'm gonna start a complete new distributor. Believe it or not , I found reman's for $45. ! Quick swap, and probably due at 250,XXX miles anyways. If that doesn't straighten it out...time to split the intake.:gasp:

    Wow, your boss must be on the hunt! That is rotten!
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  14. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member

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    :lol:AAAH The two shoe Cadillac! Gotcha! Yes! Driving is WAY better than walkin, especially when its in a GM truck! Think I'm gonna start a complete new distributor. Believe it or not , I found reman's for $45. ! Quick swap, and probably due at 250,XXX miles anyways. If that doesn't straighten it out...time to split the intake.:gasp: Wow, your boss must be on the hunt! That is rotten![/QUOTE]

    let is know what happens.
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  15. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    let is know what happens.[/QUOTE]

    Most certainly will! Thanks!
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  16. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    Anyone know what all is involved it switching from a Vortec 305 to a Vortec 350??? Just curious.
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  17. BurbanMan

    BurbanMan Member

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    should just be pulling one engine and installing the other...
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  18. vncj96

    vncj96 New Member

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    I would also think you would need a matching PCM for 350 or get the 305 reflash end for the 350
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  19. GeoLow97

    GeoLow97 New Member

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    Most certainly will! Thanks![/QUOTE]


    Well, switched my Distributor. The check engine light now stays on solid, which is a step in the right direction. The distributor I pulled was plastic with an old style foot that did not slide onto the flats to lock timing location. I put the new distributor in with the adjustable foot and lined things up back to where they were as close as I could. I figure I could unplug the tan with black wire referred to in the Haynes manual and put a timing light on it. SURPRISE! There is no timing tab on the timing chain cover! So I just ran it where it was. Ran okay but pinged excessively under acceleration. So I decided to put the foot that came with the new distributor on. It has the long legs that locate the distributor. It appeared that this advanced the timing quite a bit which would explain the pinging. But then the engine cranked like the battery was half dead and it was zero degrees outside. So I replaced the adjustable foot, retarded the timing and now it runs ok but still has the pinging and doesn't have the power that I had before this whole episode began. Any thoughts on what to do next? THank you guys SO much.
    #19
  20. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member

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    My thought, is that you need to set the timing, guessing won't work.
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