A/C compressor failure $$$

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by SoundZman, Sep 22, 2011.

  1. SoundZman

    SoundZman Rockstar 100 Posts

    Sounds like my A/C compressor may be going out. Getting a bad vibration when it engages...

    So I know the compressor it's self is about $300. I'm wonder if any of you guys have had this done & what have the shops charge you guys for the complete repair?

  2. BobEhud

    BobEhud Rockstar

    you will need to do the Receiver Drier at the same time you do the Compressor,without doing so you will not get any warranty from anywhere. The drier has a big dis-scant bag to absorb moisture and is more or less the trash can of your system also the orifice tube must be changed on your truck that should be at one of 2 places..in the mid 9 0's GM moved them from the inlet of the Drier to the Condenser in front of the radiator making your whole system less efficient.

    Why? Would they do that well if you have it at the Drier when get out you can clearly hear a hissing noise as pressure bled off and by moving it to the condenser it is hard to hear...vent temps went up about 5 degree's over it,but people stopped bitcin at GM.

    Now please for gods sake let someone with the right equipment do this.You need to pull a vacuum of 29.5in for an hour or better and its a rear air system double that.It clean moisture,well clean isn't right it boils it and evaporates leaving a cleaner drier system.And when you charge pressures will need to be right and measures against the vent temp..little tip if you want to ck your vent temp middle vents and fan on second to lowest speed,trust me on this one.
  3. SoundZman

    SoundZman Rockstar 100 Posts

    Bob thanks for the great info....when researching new compressors I've seen where the warranties will only be valid with the replacement of the orifice tube, drier/accumulator and a system flush. And for this reason is why I'm asking what the cost has been to anyone who's had this performed by an AC shop.

    I was really hoping I can do the job myself and I probably could do everything except for the system flush. So when I really think about it's not worth doing myself. But I've heard so horror stories of people pay well over $1k with a catastrophic compressor failure.
  4. BobEhud

    BobEhud Rockstar

    If you have a complete Compressor failure you dump tons of aluminum into the system,and 1K is cheap..most times i just replace the condenser as well.The tubes in R134a Condenser are so much smaller and so many more it is not a sure fix even if you flush it.

    I have seen catastrophic failures cost almost 2K.Yours would be cheaper common truck,common parts.But don't let it go there and understand the temps are going down when you run the defrost you engage the AC compressor.

    there are just some things that aren't meant to be done in your drive way..the systems HAS to have vacuum pulled on it_You have to Know the High side/Low side pressures...which in 80-85 ambient temp the High side on your GM cools best at about 200-205lbs high side..40 ish low side.I converted an older Chevy and that's how i got my best temps were pressure not the volume of freon and anyone competent in AC knows that.

    you want REAL cold temps tell them to relocated the damn orifice tube where belongs by the Drier..im doing that to my Burban when i fix the air.They make a kit i know Napa and Car Quest has them cheap about 65/75 and little labor.Just dont freak out when you get out and the pass side of truck is hissing...lol
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011
  5. SoundZman

    SoundZman Rockstar 100 Posts

    Well I took it in to my mechanic and he tested the both high and low pressure sides. Said the low side was spot on but high side was running a little high but not maxed out, indicating there's a partial restriction in the a/c system as well as a intermittently noisy compressor. He said he could do the complete a/c job for around $800, that's replacing compressor, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube & flushing the whole system and recharge of course. His suggestion is to keep driving it as it still gets very cold just not so much at idle. So when it goes out completely then I know what to expect.

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