A/c compressor...

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by bUCKOLA, Jul 21, 2009.

  1. bUCKOLA

    bUCKOLA New Member

    ...is rattling. It sounds as if the bearings are going. Has anyone replaced the compressor in an 02 4.8 Silverado. Is it fairly basic or should I run away?
  2. texas99lb

    texas99lb Rockstar

    +1 would like to know also, mine is making a noise as well. I know my air is not as cool as it could be either...its cold sometimes and sometimes its just cool...I recharged it and still doesnt make a diff. I would buy one and install it myself but I heard their is alot of precautions when installing..I have the 5.3 vortec in my 2000 silverado. Would love to get this issue knocked out..
  3. unplugged

    unplugged Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    It depends on your level of comfort working with AC and what tools you have. Do you have a good gauge set to check the pressure levels? Do you know that replacing the compressor requires you to replace other parts like the receiver dryer? I have tinkered with AC and even replaced a compressor or two, but these days I prefer to take it to my mechanic. He's not cheap, but he does a much better job than I do.
  4. texas99lb

    texas99lb Rockstar

    my concern is flushing out the system, I know there is a special type of fluid or refrigerant you have to use, and some machine...So othe than that I think I can do it. I just want to take all precautions before attemping this, and I have heard a/c repair and service is really pricey, I am just trying to save money...
  5. 2COR517

    2COR517 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    It's best to start buy checking the pressure in your system. If there is no refrigerant than there is no environmental impact to doing it yourself. Simply bolt in the compressor, and replace the dryer/accumulator. Add refrigerant with oil and you are good to go. If your system is not empty, you SHOULD have it evacuated so no R134 is released into the atmosphere. R134 is not supposed to be as bad as R12. The personal decision is up to you. I have cracked a system before to fix it. I personally don't think it's any worse than a leaky system that you keep refilling.
  6. texas99lb

    texas99lb Rockstar

    This is the dryer/accumulator right
  7. eallanboggs

    eallanboggs New Member

    You have to pull a vacuum on the system if you open it up before you put freon after replacing the compressor. The EPA now says you can't bleed freon into the atmosphere because you will damage the ozone layer. That means a recovery unit. If you just open the system and do the repairs right away without leaving the system open overnite you might get away without replacing the dryer, but it sure wouldn't hurt. You MUST pull vacuum to get the moisture out that gets in while the system is open. Water(condenstion) and freon don't mix. Pull the system down before putting the freon back in(recovery unit) or putting in more R134a.
  8. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    I just replaced the compressor, condensor, drier, and low side line on my Altima. I hit most issues of Murphys law but outside of that really was not difficult. there are different ways to go about it.
    1. Take it to a shop and have the system evacuated (legally you need to). Then do the repairs (compressor-at least do the drier as well) some warranties require condensor, drier, expansion valve to all be changed as well. then take it to a shop and have it vacuumed and then recharged.

    2. Evacuate the system. do the repairs, and recharge. this requires a good set of manifold gauges which run about 90 dollars at autozone, and a vacuum pump. Harbor freight has the guages for 50 but mine didn't work and broke the first time. they also have vacuum pumps. one you hook to an air compressor, but you need a good compressor to get good vacuum because of the air requirement and it needs to pull for at least 45 minutes (costs 15 dollars but my compressor sucks so couldn't get a deep enough vacuum). They also have a 2.5 cfm electric pump for 89 dollars (this works well so you dont need the 160 or 220 dollar ones they also sell). Then recharge with the proper amount of oil and R134. Not difficult just costs money on tools.

    3. take it to a shop and have them do all the work. I would still buy the parts before you go to the shop so you do not pay the shops mark up. Easy but most expensive probably around 400-500 dollars.
  9. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    The epa doesnt allow you to vent into the atmosphere but that is why they switched from R-12 to R134. the R134 isnt supposed to be harmful but you still can't vent it legally. R-12 was better and I don't buy that the little gas made it all the way to the arctic and was making a hole that was going to kill us all.
  10. bUCKOLA

    bUCKOLA New Member

    Thanks everyone but I got lucky this time.I pulled out the stethoscope last nite and narrowed the noise down to the either the compressor or the tensioner pulley I wasn't sure because I couldn't reach the tensioner cuz I`m getting older and I don't bend over for just any little thing. On my way home tonite I stopped at my local Canadian Tire store and on a whim, ($70)picked up a new tensioner . I figure if im wrong.. I`ll simply take it back.Well as I get closer to home I smell rubber burning. I`m following an old 64 Dodge Monico so I`m not sure if its him or me I smell. Well...it was me. The belt fried the noise was gone and when I checked (yes I bent over) the tension idler was seized. Removed the old...Bolted on the new...installed a new belt and dammit...it was good to be me today.:great:

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