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All you audio people out there....I need your help!

Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by 2011laserblue, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    Get a Radio with 3 sets of rca outputs and High Volt. 4Volt or better.. You will get a cleaner/ louder sound...
    #21
  2. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Gosh it would be nice to keep the factory xm antenna. Thanks Surreal.

    Perfect...the pioneer one I want has three!! and 4v! Haha this is fun guys :party:
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2012
    #22
  3. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    Higher voltage outputs only come into play as long as you have a quality amp... If you have a 4v line out going into an amp that is only rated at 3 will cancel out that extra volt.

    Example. My JVC has 5v line outs and my zx350.4 has a 5v input. Perfect match. Now for tuning sake let's get pragmatic here. My JVC in reality probably only produces about 3.8-4v line out. So to make up that signal voltage loss I turn up my gain to about 20% to compensate for only getting 4v to the amp. That is the ONLY purpose for the gain...voltage make-up. Nothing more. This should help you match up equipment together.

    By acquiring a deck with higher line-out voltage you will have to turn up the gain less to "fake" line voltage. Affectively increasing sound quality. Sound interference has nothing to do with line-out voltage.

    Signal interference and loss is dictated by the quality of RCAs you use and that's pretty much it. There is a myth that you shouldnt run RCA cables next to your 12v power feed but it's only a myth. The truth is 14.4vdc doesn't create a large enough magnetic field around the conductor to distort signal generation.

    Typical alternator wines are caused by improper grounding or lose connections at the battery. The reason grounding causes such in issue in DC setups is because current travels from the - battery terminal through the system all the way to the +. (electron current flow theory)

    Now on your system selection all you need to keep in mind is a few things, price range, how much room you want to retain in your cab and what features you want from your headunit. You also need to keep in mind the music you want to listen to. That will dictate sealed or ported box and the size subs. Don't spend more on 12s thinking your getting louder subs, 10s and 12s are the same just about when you ring out their db. Don't load the subs yourself. Have the shop you buy the stuff from do it. They will impedance match to your amplifier.

    Sigh.....there is a crash course in system selection. PM me anytime if you have answer. I've worked in the industry for a long time now and Ive just got my Electrical engineering degree about licked. So I can handle questions on all fronts.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012
    #23
  4. 2011laserblue

    2011laserblue New Member

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    Zigger

    That was very informative and helpful, thank you very much. I'll PM you forsure once I get a better idea of what I want, then you can tell me what you think. I think I've pretty much got it figured out...still deciding on an amp though. I listen to every type of music from hip-hop, rock, country, and when I'm feeling classy even some jazz. :glasses:

    Thank you again..and you can probably expect a PM in the next few days once I get my stuff in line!
    #24
  5. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    I always forget that in the states you guys have sat radio. I wish we had that up here in Alaska.
    #25
  6. SuthrnZ71

    SuthrnZ71 New Member

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    Great looking sub box, thanks for the pics! Is your headunit a pioneer 4200? Have that one in my Z and really like it!
    #26
  7. Z-71

    Z-71 New Member

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    Thanks...The deck is the pioneer AVH-p4300 and I really like mine too.I have had single din pioneer decks back in the day and was never happy with them but this one is awesome.If I had another truck I would put another AVH model in without a doubt.
    #27
  8. The Heater

    The Heater New Member

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    Well, lots of opinions. Typical response on a forum with this type of topic. Like it was stated, everyone has one and they are all worth the same: two cents.

    I would go with what Zigger said in his first post. You really do need to set a budget, and he said that again in the post above. I agree that his "$1500-2,000" is a good estimate for a starting budget. I probably would edge that a little higher depending on where you live and the cost of the labor there. Some may feel this sounds like a lot, but if you pay for installation, which I recommend to get it done right (assuming you hire good people to do it). You could end up spending more by the time you are through.

    Someone mentioned eBay. Yes, it is less expensive to buy audio products there. As long as you know what you are looking for. You still have to install it, and you need a good installer unless you do it yourself.

    If you are relatively new to the aftermarket audio world, go with new amplifiers, with warranties. I personally only buy old school USA made amplifiers. Some I have to repair. But I know the industry from back then, have a few industry connections, and I can get the stuff I buy fixed by reputable people. I like the quality better than the new stuff out there and I don't like buying amplifiers made overseas unless it is Germany or Japan. There are many good new amplifiers out there. You can get some information by registering at some car audio web sites such as the12volt.com, diymobileaudio.com, caraudio.com and posting a query.

    You have some space limitations, which will limit what product you purchase to keep everything under the seat. If you do buy any amplifiers or processors on the web, make sure the dimensions will allow you to install it where you want it.

    Ask the seller what class amplifier it is. I personally would not use a Class D amplifier for anything but a subwoofer. The reason is that the sine wave produced by those amplifiers has the peaks and valleys cut off. You won't hear that at subwoofer frequencies. My preference is AB amplifiers.

    Another thing mentioned is voltage output versus input voltage tolerance of the amplifier, and this is a very good point. The real good amplifiers take up to 5 volts. You have to ask the seller what the max voltage tolerance is for the amplifier if it is not published by the manufacturer in the consumer information. If the amplifier does take up to 5 volts, you can still get a head unit putting out less than 3 for example, and purchase a processor from Audiocontrol that you can adjust the voltage of the audio signal to the amplifier up to 5 volts (even more with some of their products).

    Kenwood Excelon head units produce a 4 volt signal.
    #28
  9. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    Budgets are great. But that's a good point, a lot of people do end up breaking the budget...it's almost unavoidable
    #29
  10. The Heater

    The Heater New Member

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    I didn't say it clearly, but the budget issue is important to me because too many folks shortchange their project by purchasing cheap junk based on an unrealistically low "budget", only to replace it with better equipment later when they are dissatisfied with the sound. You will save money if you fork out the dough for the good stuff up front.

    I have a BMW Dinan M6 that I have owned since 1993, and it has an audio install that I have only changed one of the amplifiers around 1998 (to get more power) and the rest keeps on ticking after this many years. There just isn't anything out there that I want that would beat what they installed. And back then it cost me $3200 for the whole thing.
    #30
  11. Cujonaut

    Cujonaut New Member

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    I went the cheaper way with my system. It works better in a regular cab, but the sound is awesome. I bought a 500 watt sony head unit, a 300 watt Jensen amp, and apassive bazooka tube with a 6 inch subwoofer. I put the bazooka right in the middle behind the center console and attached the amp to the back panel. It sounds great and I only spent around $300.00. I bought the bazooka without an amp since I already had the Jensen amp, but you can buy them with an amp included to save on space.
    #31
  12. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    Where did you find a 500 watt headunit? That's huge!? 99.9999% of headunits are 50x4 watts..
    #32
  13. lquattro04

    lquattro04 Member

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    Just out of suriosty... whats you set up? Which model kickers and what box (or if its custom made)?

    The reason I'm asking is because I have a 12" L7 that i had in my last truck and I wasn't going to spend money on a new set of subs just so they would be hidden under the seats. My problem is the mounting depth on mine is damn deep that it won't fit under the seat let alone with the box. My shop said I could weld brackets and raise my back seats up, but that would look dumb in my opinion. Plus I don't want people hitting their heads off of the roof of my cab haha.

    The only other thing I could think of was to take out the 60/40 bench seat and replace the 60 with another 40 leaving me without a middle seat, which is fine, then I'd have a custom box made to sit in between them. However, I can't find the right parts online anywhere because obviously they only make the 40 to be on the passenger side. I'm sure I could fix it with a little modding, but I don't want to drop cash and find out it can't be done.

    Anyone have any insight on this?

    Thanks guys!
    #33
  14. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    You can fit that sub under your rear seat if you have a 99-2007 extended cab. I have two L7 10s under my seat. You will have to stay with a sealed box (they are much more musical) and the box has to be a custom made up firing box. The L7 sub is a great driver for these trucks because they are about the mac you can fit under a seat.
    #34
  15. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    And even with that you are only getting between 14-22 watts RMS out of the best head units...
    #35
  16. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    I'm thinking 500 watts was a typo. But I agree. Very small and inefficient headunits.
    #36

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