Any Power Steering pump replacement tips?

Discussion in 'General Chevy & GM Tech Questions' started by Pikey, Oct 18, 2012.

  1. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    I am replacing my ps pump in my 2005 yukon XL next week. I can't stand the noise it is making, albeit you can only hear it in the cab. I don't think that I have ever done one. (at least that I can remember). Any tips? I am going to rent the pully puller from autozone so I can pull the pully off of the old one and press it onto the new one. Any tips/suggestions before I start this job? The lines are just clamped hoses so no worry about getting the lines started without cross threading. I bought an AC delco with reservoir, so I don't have to deal with switching that over. I have read that after install I should fill it and soin it by hand a few times to prime it. Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
  2. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Moderator

    Sounds like you have all the information you need. Just make sure they include the new "O" rings, I've seen those missing from the package in the past and it isnt worth doing the job and not replacing a .05 piece to risk a leak.
  3. j cat

    j cat Active Member

    I would replace the power steering fluid first . drain completely and refill. jack both front wheels off the ground after filling the system then start engine and slowly turn steering wheel left /right. then recheck level. I used prestone fluid with the seal conditioner.

    with a refill of the system when purging you do not want any force on the steering system.
    give it a few hundred milles and you should see a noise reduction. I had this occur many times before. I now replace the fluid after about 7yrs/80,ooomi.


    just recently my steering box was leaking. the input seal ISS to it . I got a repair seal kit for 8.oo. the old seal was not installed correctly . no leaks now. I saved a few hundred on that fix. 2000 SIL.4X4.
  4. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    All the fluid is new. I just had the gearbox and hydroboost brake booster replaced under warranty. So, I do not want to add any kind of conditioner to the system as everything else is new. They had to do the hydrobooster twice because the first one leaked. The noise came after the second replacement. I assume that the guy was in a hurry or busy and ran the pump with not enough or foaming fluid. That is why it is so noisy. I could have the pump repaired under warranty, but I have a $100 deductible and the new pump is $77. Plus, I prefer not to take it back to the guy and have him put a crappy reman not made for the hydroboost system on the truck. The reman companies seem to rebuild them all the same and show the same part numbers for trucks with hydroboost (7200 lbs) and trucks without. Where GM shows a different part number for each. @tbplus10 what o-ring are you speaking of? The hoses are slide on hose clamp style, so there is no oring on the hose fittings on the pump side, because there are no fittings.
  5. j cat

    j cat Active Member

    many have had the steering box replaced with a remanufactured type to find that they just replace the seals and the metal gears are worn so they do fail quickly. now that you explained the noise It is reasonable to assume that the pump was run dry or not properly filled and purged of air causing the damage. the pump should be replaced with a new part to avoid any issues. the O rings would be on the threaded fittings that you may remove to replace the pump. when I removed my input shaft steering box bearing assy the hose had an O ring on the end of the threaded fitting. I removed two hoses.

    the prestone fluid with the seal condition does work to stop leaks if the seals are just shrinking. If the seals are damaged due to improper install then this is where they need replacing.

    I keep my vehicles for 10-17 yrs. and the only power steering leak was with the 2000 sil steering gear input seal leaking . as I mentioned before that was not installed correctly which is why it failed. I thought that possibly the input shaft was corroded causing the leaking but the shaft after using some polishing cloth was perfect. the seal however was very distorted from not being pressed into the housing correctly.

    I was surprised that the internal metal of the steering gear was very clean and no rustly stains.the metal was bright steel. but I do replace this fluid about 5-7 yrs .
  6. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Moderator

    Some of the older pumps have a block that bolts to the pump for the fluid lines and behind the block there are normally "O" rings.
  7. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    oh, ok! I guess that my major concern is removing the pully and pressing the pully onto the new one. Yes I will have the tool and hope for a nice chamfer as a lead in on the new shaft so I am sure it is going on correctly, but it still concerns me.
  8. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Moderator

    Pulling the pulley off and reinstalling is going to be interesting. Try to avoid doing it on the truck, but if I remember correctly, you have to pull the pulley to get to the bolts for the pump. You may want to pull at least the top radiator fan shroud to give yourself better access. I didn't on mine and while I got it done, my hands and arms were scraped up a lot more as a result.
  9. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    Yes, I do have to do it on the truck to get to the bolts and to be able to get the pump off the mount. Luckily, my truck came from the factory with electric fans, so I have plenty of room and no shroud to remove.
  10. tbplus10

    tbplus10 Moderator

    If you have problems with the chamfer on the pulley or the pump you should be able to dress it up a little with a file and not create any balance problems. Liquid dishwashing soap always makes for a nice slippery surface that dries off or wash's off easy if things dont slip on as easy as they should.
  11. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Moderator

    One tip with the pulley installer. If you use the typical installer available at AutoZone or Harbor Freight, you have to turn a nut while holding the jackscrew in place. Make sure you hold the jackscrew in place and turn the nut evenly. Otherwise the pulley will start going on crooked. No matter what I did, the pulley didn't want to go on straight at first, but it straightened out as I kept going.
  12. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    Last edited: Oct 19, 2012
  13. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    The pump should be here next week sometime. I am having the front diff rebuilt under warranty (I hope) at the beginning of the week. So, I started soaking the pully and shaft joint down with croil (claims to creep into a 1 one millionth of and inch). Hopefully by midweek it will penetrate enough that the pully comes off with no issue. The inner threads on the shaft are pretty rusty, Hope I can screw the tool into it without to much work.
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2012
  14. j cat

    j cat Active Member

    the penitrating oil you used does work quite well. the metal threads should be cleaned with a wire brush of the proper size shape to clean up those rusted threads.

    the threaded bore can be cleaned with a pipe wire brush with some wd-40 to aid in the cleaning.

    If you find the pulley does not want to come off try some heat with a small propane torch [small tip] heating the shaft area of the pulley should break the bond. you should not need much heat to get it off.
  15. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    I will have to see what size threads they are when I rent the tool, as i do not have a thread gauge here and internal threads in a diameter that small are kinda hard to read with a gauge anyway. I may have a tap that I can run thru it to clean them up.
  16. j cat

    j cat Active Member

    using a tap may remove material then cause a failure. you can get small dia wire pipe brushes 1/8-1/4 inch

    after you clean out the threads then wash out the oil with a solvent. that way the tool will lock in secure.
  17. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator

    I have the pipe brushes. The job I used to have involved rebuilding old foundry equipment. I used to spend hours cleaning with air and brushes, then brush and brake clean, then air, then tap them all. These holes were filled with sand, rust, water, you name it.
  18. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Moderator

    Right. I found that if I tried to get lazy and hold the big nut that's doing the pressing stationary and rotate the jack screw, it wanted to try to walk on very crooked. Turning that big nut while holding the jack screw stationary in the engine compartment is not as easy as it seems, but is unfortunately the only way to get it done. It should be easier since you have plenty of space with the e-fans.

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