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Autoride

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by mtbob, Apr 11, 2009.

  1. mtbob

    mtbob New Member

    I have a 2006 3/4 Ton Suburban with an 8.1, 4 whl drive and Autoride. Has anyone tried to change the rear ride height ? I've heard that shortning the length of the rod that connects the axel and the lever arm to the ride sensor will reduce the ride height. Has anyone tried this ? and how did it work ? Hooking up my 31' Airstream even with a power jack is a bear because it needs to be extended all the way up for the existing ride height. I've already dropped the ball on the equilizer hitch down to the lowest level for hookup.
     
  2. trojans1981

    trojans1981 New Member

    yes cutting that rod will help, but if you don't want to shorten the rod, you can disconnect the airline that goes to each individual rear shock and plug it back in when you are hooked up.
     
  3. Jacqson

    Jacqson Rockstar 100 Posts


    2500 Suburbans do not have the Air pump with the air shocks like the 1500's. All Autoride is on the 2500's is what is called BSRTD(Bi State Real Time Damping). The rods you are talkng about are called Position Sensors and they are used to adjust shock damping depending on your road conditions. You may have to find a hitch that drops down lower than the one you have because the rear of your Sub isn't going to go any lower.
     
  4. mtbob

    mtbob New Member

    Hey Jacqson, thanks for the input. Are you saying that the existing static ride height is a constant ? Its been very difficult to find anyone who really knows the ins and out of the 2500 Burb Autoride system. Mostly confused with the 1500 Levelride. I've wondered if the only solution was to drop the height of the ball to level the trailer.
     
  5. Jacqson

    Jacqson Rockstar 100 Posts

    Yep, the existing static ride is a constant. Other than trying to get your rear springs lower you will have to drop the height of the ball to level the trailer. I have written threads on how to completely remove the Autoride system from a 2500, if you're interested let me know.
     
  6. mtbob

    mtbob New Member

    Thanx again Jacqson, looks like I'm going to need a xtra long drop bar for the ball as I can't get it any lower than it is now. Would be interested in your threads in case I need them down the road when something fails on the existing system. I hear replacement parts are spendy.
     
  7. Jacqson

    Jacqson Rockstar 100 Posts


    Nope, No change in ride height, although the ride was a little better with the Bisteins and the removal of the Auotride.
     
  8. nvestysly

    nvestysly New Member

    I realize this is an old thread but the situation is so similar to mine I thought I would add to the discussion. We will be purchasing a draw bar with a longer drop in order to hitch up our trailer and tow it level. Our new (to us) 2005 K2500 Suburban is several inches higher than our 1996 C2500 Suburban. New vehicle, new hitch set-up.

    I'll have to take a closer look under the K2500 to see what the shocks look like. It hasn't been obvious to me on the forum or on mfr web sites that the 2500 shocks are different than the 1500 shocks. Sounds like the 2500 shocks are a simpler system.
     
  9. Jacqson

    Jacqson Rockstar 100 Posts

    The 2500 shocks just have position sensors and the BSRTD. That's it, no air shocks.
     
  10. nvestysly

    nvestysly New Member

    Thanks for the reply Jacqson. I see from your posts above that you've described transitioning from BSRTD shocks on the 2500 to non-BSRTD shocks. If you have time to post the links to those threads it would be helpful.

    What are your thoughts on the ride, cost, etc. of the non-BSRTD now that you're a few years into it? I look forward to hearing about your experience. My new (to me) 2005 Suburban has 86k miles. Things like shocks may need to be replaced in the next year or so.
     

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