1. Welcome To GMTruckClub.com!

    The #1 Chevy Truck Forum Online
    Online since 2004, we are the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV forum and user community. If you have any questions about your Chevy or GMC Truck, SUV or Crossover, or just want to connect with other GM owners and enthusiasts around the world, you've found the best place on the internet to do that.

    Join Today ~ It's Free
    Registering is Free and Easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon!

Ball joints

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Jeff Dodson, Oct 13, 2013.

Random Gallery Photos

  1. Jeff Dodson

    Jeff Dodson New Member

    Anyone change ball joints. I have on my older trucks.... Any tips on this one

    99 GMC SIERRA Z71
  2. TrailLeadr

    TrailLeadr New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

  3. Jeff Dodson

    Jeff Dodson New Member

    All the above. Just kinda worried about the lowers when. I seperate from the spindle. Never worked on one with torsion bars. The 2wd just slowly release the spring untill there is no load. What about these with torsion bars
  4. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    You don't have to do anything special. It is basically the same as doing it on a 2wd. When I did mine last I pulled the 36mm nut off the front CV shaft, took off the caliper, took off the tie rod end, disconnected the knuckle from from the upper and lower ball joint and set it to the side. Then I changed out the ball joints and tie rod end, and reassembled.
  5. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Nothing special to do with the torsion bars. You can do it 2 ways. If you are replacing both, you can leave the axle attached and do one at a time, or pull the nut off to remove the spindle and do them at the same time.

    Looking at new ones it seems that your ball joints should be riveted in (new ones are bolted in) instead of being pressed in. These are easy if you have a cut off wheel. You cut the heads of the rivets off then use a punch to remove the rivets. The new ones simply bolt into place.
  6. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    x2 on the rivets. I have run into issues removing them in the past. I take the head off with an air chisel and then beat the rivets out. Sometimes they do not want to move, so I then drill them. I start with a small bit and move up progressively. After you get a decent sized hole in them they will basically fall out. I did break a drill bit off in one of them. Luckily I had a carbide tipped drill bit and it removed it quickly.
  7. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    yep pretty much how we did it in the shop I worked at. cut an x in the head, chisel off, then use a punch in the air chisel. But then we didnt have the rust issues yall have up there
  8. Jeff Dodson

    Jeff Dodson New Member

    Thanks, and the bottom are press in/out ?????, what's the possibility of the the hub bearings being bad. I have a sound in the front when I turn left sharp, that sounds like when a locked hub is not released.... I know these hubs don't lock and unlock so what would this grind be. The CV. Boots are still in tact, no rips and the joints seem tight. Is the maybe a way to grease the CV joints
  9. dsfloyd

    dsfloyd New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    lowers should be rivets as well.

    Usually CV joints will have a popping/clicking noise when turning if bad. Bad bearings will give you a loud hum or will just have movement. I have replaced both front hubs (bearings are 1 unit with hub on mine), because of play. Easy way to check for movement is jack under lower a arm and lift about 1 inch. Grab at 6 and 12 and do a push pull movement. Now that being said bad ball joints will move with this as well so you need to see where the movement is coming from.
  10. Jeff Dodson

    Jeff Dodson New Member

    I was afraid you were going to say that. I really don't think the hub bearings are bad, I think I may have a bad CV joint... Change the joint or SHAFT.....

Share This Page