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Banks system on 6 liter gas

Discussion in 'Performance & Fuel' started by tparr, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. tparr

    tparr New Member

    Hi,

    I have a 2003 2500HD with the 6 liter gas engine.

    I need some information from anyone that might be using Banks system.

    My truck is rated for 10400 lbs. I purchased the truck last year to pull a travel trailer, but started looking at 5th wheels. The problem there is the weight. The lightest 5th wheel that we looked at came at just over 9000 lbs dry. This would the upper towing level for my truck. I could do it if I stayed in the mid west. But I want to be able to pull over the Rockies. In 2007 the 6 liter was upped in horse power and had a towing rate of around 12000 lbs. This would be enough for me.

    What I would like is information from someone that might be able to help with information on using the Banks Stinger Kit ( ram air inlet, exhaust, tuner). For the $$$ did the performance improve? What happened to mpg?

    Thanks for any help

    Tom
  2. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Trucks towing capacity is not only based on the horsepower of the motor but also the brake system and axle capability. I am not sure, but since 07 was a model change to the NNBS they may have also upgraded the braking system.
  3. tparr

    tparr New Member

    What I would like to look into would be to install the Banks Powerpack ( which has Ram Air, tuned headers, exhaust and the programmer ). I am told from Banks that it well increase my HP to 365 hp and torque by 70. The same truck with the 8.1 liter ( 340 hp / 455 lb-ft torque ) can pull 14000 lbs. I also know that the 8.1 has the Allison trans and my truck does not. I would like to be able to pull about 12000 lbs.

    Has anyone done this to a gas engine? If so what can you pull? Was the money worth the increase? Any information would help me.
  4. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 2 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    You might be able to "pull" that weight, but will you be able to stop it?
  5. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    This is critical. Speed and motion never killed or hurt anyone -- it's the sudden, unexpected stop in oddball places and against dangerous things that does.

    Presumably what's being towed has brakes on each axle (either electric ... or hydraulic over electric) and there's an appropriate brake controller in place. If so, then the stopping power is probably fine and we're back to load rating/capacity.

    12,000lb capacity is likely fine for a 9,000lb dry weight load ... plus passengers, fuel, cargo, and the like, as there's plenty of overhead in which to breathe. Exceeding 12,000lbs poses all the usual hazards of exceeding a mechanical and material design. i.e. Can the frame take it for sustained periods? Can the transmission handle it for sustained periods without overheating? What about the differentials? It's not just about the engine...
  6. tparr

    tparr New Member

    As I said before. The 8.1 liter 2500hd is the same as my 2500hd only a different engine. Yes the trans is different, I know that and my truck has a temp gauge for the trans, so I will be able to watch the temp. As far as I know the frame, brakes, tires, drive line are the same for the 8.1 and 6.6 duramax in the 2500hd truck. My truck is a 2 wheel drive by the way.
  7. dobey

    dobey Rockstar 3 Years 100 Posts

    Also, check your trans cooler. The tow rating is partially based on that, as well as the brakes and suspension. You don't want to have your trans burn up while you're pulling that 12000 lb load, do you? You likely need to upgrade the trans cooler for pulling larger loads. You might want to look at upgrading the transmission itself as well. Pulling too much weight can end up causing slippage and result in burning up the clutches in the trans.
  8. tparr

    tparr New Member

    I plan on checking for a trans cooler factory installed and if need be install another and also an engine oil cooler. Years ago I worked at a place that put instrumentation on the car to monitor temperatures and pressures. I did that with a van I had pulling a RV. That way I kept a eye on the condition of the motor and trans.
  9. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Sounds like you're set. Donyms raises a good point.

    To add to that, you might consider a Tru Cool 40k GVWR cooler. That's a very worthwhile investment even if you don't tow, as heat is the bane of any transmission and that cooler is just amazing ... and a very reasonably priced upgrade.

    It's easy enough to install. If you have the tiny OEM cooler in place, already, then it might make sense to contact EAD Performance and order a mounting kit for it. The kit they sell (which didn't used to be listed on their site ... but is still sold) makes it completely braindead to put in the 40k GVWR cooler, as the kit allows you to re-purpose the factory cooler lines and comes with a mounting bracket for the cooler.

    The thinking on the cooler upgrade is that it should help extend transmission life whether towing or not ... simply due to the heat reduction it provides. It's also overkill and sets you up for adequate cooling for anything/everything you might tow.

    Note: If you have a factory cooler then I believe there should already be a bypass in place ... and if not you'd need to order the Tru Cool with the bypass. I have no experience with the latter.

    Search around on this forum -- a number of us have done this upgrade and I can't recall a bad review, complaint, or experience, yet.
  10. tparr

    tparr New Member

    Thanks SurrealOne for all of the input. It really helps me.

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