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batteries and offroad lights

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by bigbuck493, Feb 16, 2014.

  1. bigbuck493

    bigbuck493 Member

    I have a 2010 silverado and i believe it has the snowplow prep package because it came with the amber cab light switch stock and does not have them. I am going to be installing the factory fog light setup (mine doesnt have fogs now and some idiot backed into my bumper end cap and the cost to fix it is enough to allow me to do a different setup... can never have enough lights!) which brings me to this question. I will be installing kc 6" apollo driving lights 100w (x2) or the kc daylighters driving lights 130w (x2) and within a year also would like to buy a single long range/ spot beam 130w daylighter regardless of what i go with and put it in between the other 2 also it prob wont matter but also a 60" led tailgate bar... I have only one battery running now and when i am driving at night and i go to use my windows you can see that intial drop cause the headlights to dim and i was just wondering if i was to go with this setup am i going to NEED a 2nd battery and then what setup should i go with from there? Ive seen people say isolator/ no isolator, i just want a setup that if i go to use all my stuff, if i use my windows it isnt gonna strain everything. it just bugs me lol.
     
  2. TimTom64b

    TimTom64b Member 2 Years 500 Posts ROTM Winner Gold Member

    Im not an expert with electrical... but I think you will want higher amp hr battery and a higher output alternator to keep everything charged. Allot of people are leaning toward the LED style lights... but I love my PIA lights. When I have all my lights running its like turning night to day...:))?
     
  3. BRB46

    BRB46 Rockstar Gold Member 100 Posts

    I would think that a higher amp alternator will help. Battery shouldn't make much of a difference as it is mainly used to start the engine. Once running the alternator takes over to supply power to all systems. Make sure to run them through a relay connected with a large enough wire for the amp rating. One 130W looks to draw about 11 amps so two will be 22amps. You would want at least # 10 AWG wire and at least a 30amp relay. Don't forget an inline fuse before the relay to protect the entire circuit.
     
  4. j cat

    j cat Rockstar 4 Years 1000 Posts

    when you install the lighting, pull feed off the battery block,,, place fuse there. you will need large gauge copper wire ...keep the wire runs short on the relay contacts to the lamps... the relay control wire can be small gauge wire.

    30amps should not do too much dimming ...

    If you take feed off the fuse box , then you may create a problem with power to the vehicles electrical system....GM uses to smallest gauge wires so if you pull extra power from those GM wires it can be a problem..
     
  5. bigbuck493

    bigbuck493 Member

    i actually checked my owners manual and mine came with the emercency cab lighting package so it has the cab light switch and that circuit is rated at 30 amps which i thought is perfect if i decide to wire that because i did the amperage calculation when i saw it and noticed it was 22 amps so should i be okay running it off this? and i guess i have to see about the battery install once the lights are installed to see if i see to much strain on the system. any comments on using that factory harness or should i just use that switch with the harness KC provides or just run everything kc provides me with and use the cab light switch for any rear mounted led lights i put on in the future?
     
  6. Jamm3r

    Jamm3r Member 1 Year 100 Posts

    You will want to replace your stock AD-230 alternator with a larger-frame AD-244 alternator. If you get the right version of the AD-244 it is a plug and play change except that in most case a 1/2" longer serpentine belt is required. Sometimes you can get away with the stock one.

    The AD-244 will provide more amps at idle which an overwound (high amp) AD-230 will not.

    A second battery will not help matters much unless you intend to run the lights extensively when the engine is not running.
     
  7. Pikey

    Pikey Moderator Staff Member 3 Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    you need to do some research before even considering a new alternator. Many of the new trucks have the alternator output controlled by the pcm. So, adding a larger alternator will net no results because the pcm will still call for the same voltage needed. Look at your negative battery cable running off your battery. If it has black box attached to it then you have the system. That box is a hall effect sensor that tells the pcm how much current you are drawing at any one time. On my truck, with a new alt, battery, and all the grounds cleaned. I can roll up all four windows, my lights dim significantly for a second while the pcm tells the alternator to ramp up output. a few seconds later my lights are bright again even with all four windows activated.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I would use the GM provided switch and the harness that came from kc. Chances are that it came with a relay. Just don't use KC's switch and use your own
     
  8. bigbuck493

    bigbuck493 Member

    its funny you say that because thats what i said in the beginning! lol I said that if im driving at night and go to roll up a window the lights dim for a split second then kick back up to normal so your saying that i shouldnt do the alternator swap (wasnt really planning on it) but i might have the 170 amp. im not sure because mine has either the snoplow prep or the emergency lighting package but even say i do have the 145, would i be in danger of harming the system from putting too much load and would a 2nd battery help at all if im mainly running the stuff with truck on, thats why i was wondering about the isolator two because i thought i read that if you hook the lights up to that then the isolator will tell the alternator when to charge the 2nd one and you run your lights on that one and its a seperate ciruit.
    i dont know if this is even close to being correct i just read it and was wondering.
     
  9. TimTom64b

    TimTom64b Member 2 Years 500 Posts ROTM Winner Gold Member

    My lights dim briefly if I hit the peddle hard... think its when the fuel pump ramps up to increase pressure.
     
  10. RayVoy

    RayVoy Well-Known Member 2 Years 1000 Posts

    The snowplow prep package is RPO code VYU. Check the list of RPO codes on the label on the glove box door. If VYU is there, you have the snowplow prep package.

    I'd suspect something else, the fuel pump shouldn't draw enough to dim the lights. Just cruising on the highway at an even 50 mph, the pump will run and stop to provide fuel, the lights probably don't dim under that condition.
     

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