Battery drain issue

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by Coneklr, Aug 31, 2009.

  1. RayVoy

    RayVoy Rockstar 4 Years 5000 Posts

    Going to depend upon how many lights come on when you open the door. Other things "wake up" as well.
    One 10 watt lamp at battery voltage is going to draw 0.8 amps.

    Pull the fuse for the interior lights and see if there is still a draw when the door is opened.
  2. j cat

    j cat Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    your .5 AMP draw is too high. should be below .25AMP or lower after about 15min.

    with a 12volt system each light bulb will draw a good amount of amps. a 12 WATT bulb will draw 1 AMP. when you open the door the interior lamps will draw a few amps.
  3. COACH

    COACH New Member

    went a chevy man claimed he had never heard of a gauge cluster module...where is it located....oh, by the way,they wanted to do a leak test for a $100.00
  4. j cat

    j cat Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    the gauge cluster has an electronic module on it. the dealership would change the dash cluster. now there is no diagrams available with this . GM top secret !
  5. COACH

    COACH New Member

    thanks...the guy who redid my cluster had not heard of it
  6. Kaufmankdk

    Kaufmankdk New Member


    Here is my .2 Cents worth.

    And this thread is all but dead, but I have learned much from these Forums and this “Battery drain search”.

    First off, I am an Electrician with over 32 years of experience. “Yes, useless fact”.

    And Auto Electric is another animal, but that said. The more you work at it the better you get right!

    1) Using a D.C. Amprobe on the positive Cable I pulled the Fuses one at a time, at first I noticed no change, but with a little amount of time there will be change.

    2) This is where the cooler of beer and a friend come into play.

    3) Dust and any Liquid is not good, Tracking can and will occur. Clean and dry is best.

    4) Next, while pulling each fuse to search for the drain I used a New “Stainless Steel Tooth Brush” to clean each of the Fuse Tabs.

    5) I don’t mean to say REEF on them until the silver is removed; this in itself yielded great results. Oh starting at about 2.2 amps draw and down to .5 Amps and now down to .3 Amps

    6) During the search please don’t overlook the obvious like I did, the beer was instrumental in this equation. Doors, Glove Box and The last “Hood Light” that was not even lit. “Not working”

    7) So, it’s o.k. for the doors and glove box and the hood to be open as long as you are accounting for each of them.

    8) Clean and dry is the take away from all of this. And the finally was the “hood light fixture” has a mechanical Iron Pivot switch. Unplug the fixture to check for drain even if the light is not on.

    9) Hi resistance is Not good ever, any hi resistance will cause or simulate Load.

    10) The under hood lamp fixture was a mess; I might still have to replace the fixture. Years of bouncing “mechanical Iron Pivot switch” and probably will not hurt to go LED on all of the lamps anyway.

    11) I have a DC Amprobe. VOM in line of the ground works as well. Plenty of good information here.

    12) Thanks to all that provide support to U-Tube and The Forums, We all benefit from this.
  7. Kaufmankdk

    Kaufmankdk New Member

    Opdate: I eventually tracked my problem down to a "headlight / dome light switch". problem solved.
    It was intermittent and I chased it for the past 4 years.
    RayVoy likes this.
  8. j cat

    j cat Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    the hood light is disconnected on all my vehicles from day one. on my sedan the trunk as well. many have had these type switches fail this way. the under hood/trunk lights should have mechanical switches when you need the light switch it on.
    xPosTech and squatchy like this.

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