Blew a Intake Gasket

Discussion in 'Chevy C/K Truck Forum' started by Patrick S, Dec 20, 2011.

  1. Patrick S

    Patrick S New Member

    My 1997 chevy k2500 with a 350 blew a intake gasket on the way to work today. :grrrrrr: Coolant was coming out of the drivers side front corner of the intake manifold and along the valve cover on the drivers side. It was steaming and I am glad I noticed it before I overheated my truck. I had just spent $1000 on the truck after I hit a deer. This ticks me off more now I have to replace the gasket. Im going to do this task myself. I will post pictures ASAP. I will also post a How to Guide on replacing the Intake Gasket. I hope I can do this with no problems. I will keep everyone updated. The gasket set I ordered is the Fel-Pro gasket set from JEGS.
  2. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Rockstar 100 Posts

    My 1st thought would be to suggest you avoid the orange DexCool when you put it back toghether.
    I've had intake gaskets replaced twice because of it.

    1st time was replaced under extended warranty at a dealer, the last time I had and indi shop do the job and use std coolant when done.

    I didn't replace them myself as I was unsure of how the ecm and dist timing was handled, otherwise I'd have done it in a heartbeat(no pun intended).
  3. bigblacktruck

    bigblacktruck New Member

    Mystery coolant loss turned into disaster of epic proportions

    Have had mystery coolant loss for past few months since heads were refurbished on my 97 K1500 w/5.7. Kept checking the oil stick & on oil changes had no indication of any water getting into oil. That changed late last week- truck lost power & oil pressure dropped late Thurs, Friday am drained oil (had about a 3 gallon mocha milkshake on my hands!) Turns out when heads were done, the mechanic didn't torque the intake manifold bolts down properly- 5 of them were only hand tight. Upon lifting the intake manifold out, the lack of pressure on the gaskets had caused the rubber around the coolant passages to blow out. Old gaskets were Felpro but appear to be built up on a plastic material. Got new gasket set from Adv Auto (also Felpro), but this time they are built up on metal base and the rubber parts are a bit thicker than the old gaskets, so hopefully will hold up better (along with being torqued down propertly). Spent a lot of time cleaning out the remnants of the milkshake- towels wouldn't absorb the stuff & couldn't get down in all the nooks & crannies; brake cleaner spray worked fairly well & left the oil drain plug out for several days to allow as much residue as possible to drain. Being a 4x4 & not having a lift, dropping the oil pan is a real pain. Old timers used to drain the oil/water mix & then refill oil pan with kerosene (which provides some lubricating to the engine), run the engine at idle for 15 minutes, drain & refill with proper oil (could probably use engine flush with the lightest oil possible for the cleanup). Will be doing that Wednesday (job taking forever due to sick 5 year old twins). Will also be dropping the oil filter adapter & oil cooler lines since have leak @ adapter. Oil cooler looks like the kerosene solvent should be able to clean out without removal. Biggest pain is working up on step ladders to get into engine compartment (truck is up on ramps for access to below), and the fact that GM designed the engine without regard for whoever is maintaining the beast. Will post results of kerosene cleansing. BTW- the heat shields around the spark plugs were always slightly in the way for plug changes. After heads were done, the shields have prevented using the 5/8 socket to get the plug started (and my hands are way too big to fit in there), so have been using a piece of rubber vacuum hose (about 4-5" long) over the insulator to get the plugs started- has saved all sorts of aggravation & wish I had been doing it this way all along.
  4. outalne94z71

    outalne94z71 Member

    common for the original plastic type gaskets to crack and leak about every 80k miles, hopefully you got the better steel/rubber gaskets that eliminate the issue.
  5. TRPLXL2

    TRPLXL2 Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I just replaced an oem intake manifold gasket on an 01 alero, which was the plastic style. I searched and found a revised TSB for the gasket and the new one was stainless steel, which resists the Dexcool dilemma. Your truck might have a TSB, I would check it out before your buy the gasket set.
  6. Scott_Anderson

    Scott_Anderson Rockstar 100 Posts

    Good luck with that. I looked and looked, there was tsb's and recalls and lawsuit settlements-----all for the v-6 engines only. Nothing for the v-8's even though they suffered the same gasket failures with the dexcool product. Apparently there were not enough v-8 owners claiming problems that they were left out of it all.
  7. Patrick S

    Patrick S New Member

    I bought the complete gasket set for the intake from Jegs. I bought the ones with the rubber/steel. I did some research on gaskets and that's what everybody said to buy. I just recieved them by FEDEX today and I am going to install them tomorrow. I will keep you updated.
  8. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Epic Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    Great post.
    I think the FelPro gaskets have a part number something like 98000 or 58000??
    Do you have that number for whichever gaskets you are using?
    Anyone have the genuine GM updated part number?? I assume they are updated with stainless steel and silicon
  9. Kady

    Kady Epic Member 5+ Years GMTC Chick 100 Posts

    Had to do it with my 96 Suburban... I have pictues from the whole process as well... I had a crack in the front uppper drivers side corner of my radiator that I knew nothing about.. That wouldn't allow the me to ever top off the coolant... I just let it go since it always kept enough in the radiator, and never over heated... Well one day, it cracked more and started really leaking, so we did a pressure test, and fount the leak. Changed the radiator, and all hoses... Drove away from the garage super excited that my truck was all fixed. That was until I left the truck running outside the garage, while gathering some stuff inside, and that's when I notices smoke pouring out the front end.. Open the hood and see it coming from the motor... The new pressure it had from not having a crack in the radiator finally blew the gasket... I was not happy..
  10. Ethan

    Ethan Rockstar 100 Posts

    Hopefully I'm not too late to tell you this, when you drop the manifold in place, DO NOT move it back and fourth, just drop it straight down, if you don't get it aligned, pick it back up, and drop it straight back down again, if you shift it from side to side, you will screw up the gasket, and have to take it all apart again, assuming you don't torque it down, and realign the gasket.

    Two, make sure you torque the bolts down all over about 3 times, once you torque the outer bolts, it usually causes the inner bolts to go loose, so you have to keep doing it until they are all equally torqued.

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