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Chevy Suburban door wont slide off its pins

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by GlitchMobile, Sep 30, 2010.

  1. GlitchMobile

    GlitchMobile New Member

    2003 Chevy Suburban, 2500:

    The driver's door sags and per all the internet postings, its supposed to be a sinch to change.
    C
    an someone explain why my door wont slide up, off the pins? With retaining bolt removed, no amount of leveraging with a floor jack from below the door worked.
    Please see attached photos of upper and lower driver's side door hinge,

    Attached Files:

  2. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 3 Years 5000 Posts

    Glitch;
    I don't know if I'm the right person to answer your que. but nobody else has taken a shot at it so.....
    My passenger door was sagging about 5 years ago and I couldn't figure out how to adjust it. It actually appears like my hinge is welded to the body, but I took all the bolts out and tried anyway, but I never could move it, so I just gave up & put the bolts back in and gently persuaded it into alighment with a floor jack and a 2x4 to protect the door. NOT the right way to do it, but I had no other options other than to cut if off with a torch and weld on a new one. Look closely and see if you can see welding beads around your hinge...
    If you end up doing this, then go gently with the floor jack, small steps, and keep checking it so you don't go too far.
  3. GlitchMobile

    GlitchMobile New Member

    Thanks for the idea, but the door's not that a big bother to torch and weld it. Just figured it could have been a simple fix.
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts Platinum Contributor

    The usual fix for a sagging door is replacing the hinge pin and the hinge pin bushings. This process does not require the door to come off at all. In fact, the more immobile you can keep the door, the better. Are you trying some process I don't know about?
  5. GlitchMobile

    GlitchMobile New Member

    The way I 've pictured it, is that the door's hinge-bracket hangs on the stubby pins that are
    pressed and bolted in to the body's hinge-bracket. By lifting the door up about one inch, it can
    be moved aside to replace the pin's bushing, and/or
    the stubby pins.

    Am I right?




  6. stephan

    stephan Rockstar 3 Years 5000 Posts

    GlitchMobile,
    I'm not sure your hinge arrangement is the same as mine. I went out and looked at it and it's difficult to compare them. If I could take a photo of mine and have it right beside your pic on the computer then maybe I could tell. The biggest difficulty is that your hinge is dissasembled and mine is not so comparing them is a bit apples-oranges

    Crawdaddy, That's true, the pins and bushings is the first fix to try. The play in my pins/bushings weren't that bad but I replaced them anyway, hoping it would bring the door up, but it only came up about 1/8" and the gap at the top cab line was still 3/8"
    I tried to adjust at the hinge and saw it was welded so resorted to bending it back up. I think this truck was wrecked at one time on the rf.
  7. GlitchMobile

    GlitchMobile New Member

    My Burb's hinges are comparable to the ones that TotalAuto offers replacements for (http://www.totalauto.com/presentation/index.html). The door effectively hangs on two pins per hinge, and a center bolt locking clamp prevents the door from lifting off the pins.

    Per the videos they show the door is supposed to come apart easily. Mine doesn't, because the pins are corroded.
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2010

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