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common problems 1999 Suburban 350 CID 5.7L

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by markf1971, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. markf1971

    markf1971 New Member

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    Despite extensive searching and lots of hours reading posts I have yet to find a list of common problem for the 1999 Suburban. Or at least the 96-99 Burbs with the Vortec 350. Basically the only common problem that I have seen mentioned is the intake gasket. Surely there is more than just the intake gasket that seems to fail on these Burbs.

    I read on consumerguideauto.com that the intakes were a problem thru 1998. Below is the excerpt from their site:

    Oil leak: Oil loss and fouled spark plugs result from intake manifold gasket leaks. (1996-98)

    Did they fix the intake problem on the 99 models or is it the same as on the previous years?

    Also, could anyone list for me other common problems associated with these models (96-99)?

    Thanks in advance!
    #1
  2. Kraziken

    Kraziken New Member

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    I believe the fuel pump is a common failure item.

    The other complaint I've seen is brakes, but then I think that is because the vehicle didn't come with adequate brakes from the factory. The 2000+ Burbs have lot better factory brakes.

    Not sure if it is mentioned but engine oil cooler lines possibly? I bought mine with low miles and I was leaking oil from the cooler lines. The guy in the shop seemed to mention it was a common issue. Less than 100k on my odometer when I experienced that problem.
    #2
  3. tattooed4life

    tattooed4life New Member

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    The most common things I see and have replaced on all 96-99 obs trucks and suv's

    1) Intake Gaskets
    2)Fuel Pump
    3)Heater hose fitting on manifold-factory is aluminum needs to be changed to steel aftermarket
    4)Flush pink radiator fluid and go back to green-pink **** actually eats away aluminum which causes failure of #3 and other engine components which can result in an overheat
    5)Distributor gear wearing causing "play" in the timing

    This is all I can think of that seem to be everyday repairs at the shop with these trucks. You have all of the common issues alos but the majority of them are inexpensive easy fixes for a do it yourselfer.
    #3
  4. azdrtdog

    azdrtdog New Member

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    X2 on tattoo's list and definetly dump the pink stuff factory uses it to seal any leaks that happen during build( It co-wag-ulates) Dont spell check I just sounded it out. Anyway the fuel pump gets loud and they go at different times but they go out and the fuel pressure regulator diaphram cracks and causes hard starting due to raw fuel being sucked into maifold from vac. line
    #4
  5. azdrtdog

    azdrtdog New Member

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    Its the O ring on the tanks that would be #6 good call CADDIAC
    #5
  6. Gryphon

    Gryphon New Member

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    I've had my 99 for two years now, put 30k miles on it (120k now). I've done the fuel pump twice and the new AC Delco part still sings. They apparently didn't do the sender too as my fuel gauge shudders still. I found this thread by looking up the aforementioned radiator issue. I just found my slow leak...left side tank O ring. Also time for tie rod ends...was told they are a weak link. I also definitely agree with the weak factory brakes.

    I researched the fuel pump issue and it seems to be a case of incorrect wire gauge choice. I'm planning to build a new harness with heavier gauge wire.
    #6
  7. vncj96

    vncj96 New Member

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    the fuel gauge shudder is most likely the cluster not the fuel sender. as for me I have replaced my pump once at 110,000 miles and the intake gasket went around 85000, other then that its just nromal stuff for an 11 year old truck with 127000
    #7
  8. tm4hammer1

    tm4hammer1 New Member

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    common probs.

    my 96 2500 w/ the multiport 454 hasnt seen any problems other than the one caused by the former owner other than as noted before the brakes should be upgraded and the coolant flushed and changed back to the green i have read some bad things about the orange w/ major sludge buildup in the engine and radiator along with gasket and sealant detieriation by the way for a sealant that will hold up against these problems toyotas sealant seems to be the best in doing so! so i have read in the case study on this crap... seems like a bad deal all around and the only thing they can promote is not harmful to pets and wildlife well a loose dog or cat is just that and bambi sux:gasp: not that i leave it sitting around or am irresponsible disposing of it just that i dont loose any sleep over the tree huggers and momma's little fluffys when compared to my powerplant and cooling system oh well lifes a bigblackburb
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2010
    #8
  9. I12 Foot

    I12 Foot New Member

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    I have a 99 2wd with 202,000 miles on it. I have had all of the things listed repaired and some of them twice (intake gaskets went at around 90,000 the first time and 198,000 the second time). Radiator replaced at around 100,000 and still going strong. I would have to agree that the weakest link in the front brakes. They are just not beefy enough for such a large vehicle. In the front suspension the pitman arm seems to be the week link in my experience. I have had two suburbans from these years and both wore out pitman arms before any of the other suspension parts wore out.
    #9
  10. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis New Member

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    I bought my 1998 2wd 1500 with 195000 miles- has 212,000 now-2.75 years later.
    Been a great vehicle-changed
    Shocks
    Radiator
    Brake booster
    water pump
    intake manifold gaskets
    Previous Owner
    rebuilt trans
    redid all AC stuff

    Get 21 mpg on long hy trips- no complaints here-great trip and dog(2) cat(4) human(3) evacuation vehicle.
    Cheap too $2950.- The parts are easy to find and they are cheap too.
    You could do a lot worse than a 1996-99 Suburban.The brakes aren't great, but you get accustomed to them.Cheapo brake pads-$15.95 autozone- seem to give the best braking for some reason.

    Luck
    Charlie
    #10
  11. lexisdad1201

    lexisdad1201 New Member

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    I have also seen that if you get a used one at a good price, you can fix the little things fairly easily and without much cost. I check ebay and craigslist for used trim and interior parts. All together I am very happy with my recent purchase and enjoy the room and safety for the wife and kids. I look forward to seeing more responses to this thread.
    #11
  12. cyclrcr

    cyclrcr New Member

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    Hey all! My first time posting on here!

    I just got my 99 out of the shop for the intake manifold gasket. Hopefully that is the extent of the expensive repairs. LOL. Coolant was disapearing and the plugs were so fouled they caused the dirtributor and rotor to burn out.... so they said the gasket was the cause of the chain reaction of problems. Runs strong now! only 96K on her

    Does anyone else have issues with their power locks?
    #12
  13. 1970camaro

    1970camaro New Member

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    My 1999 Suburban has given me many a problems, but it does have 255,000 miles on it so it is kinda to be expected. It lost the fuel pump about at about 175,000 and since then it has had 3 of them, the most recent one being the AC delco factory one. The radiator went out at about 175k. The waterpump has been replaced. Both heads have been replaced 2 times. and now it seems like it is having intake manifold gasket problems (yet to be determined). I have had 3 egr valves on it. I am currently going insane because everytime i fix one thing, something else happens almost instantly. Starting to think PCM.
    #13
  14. dean

    dean New Member

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    just joined the site today. I like my suburban,it like it alot. Practical as car,truck and camper!The engine is real strong and doesn't use oil at 188,000.
    I have done most of the things mentioned above.
    1-Fuel pump needs replaced about every 70,000. I am on #3. I have paid a shop to do this at 900 a crack,but I would like to do this myself next time.Is there a thread here that explains?
    2- Brakes are mooshy..cant seem to correct..but stops adequate. Would not want to tow with it/ I like the economy of replacement parts...I just bought front calipers as $15 each!
    3- there is a plastic manifold in the engine bay on the left side for the heater hoses- be sure you replace this $50 ? part.its easy to replace and when it fails as the palstic cracks ..you lose all your coolant.
    4-intake gaskets were done under warrentee at 80,000 and A buddy of mine and me did the job again at 170,000. Took us a day and a half..hard job.
    5- recently "modified "my catalitc convertors that semed clogged..cut off and reinstalled for a stock look ..if you get my drift. Then I ordered O2 sensors simulators off the web so my dash light is off..really helped the engine..combined with the K&N intake.
    6- starter replace twice
    7- front brake pads replaced about 8-9 times( every 20,000)..backs drums about twice!
    #14
  15. FergusonT

    FergusonT New Member

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    I have seen many forums complaining of a headlight problem.....daytime running lamps and parking lights work...but when the switch is turned on for regular headlights...nothing except parking lights....I have this problem and Its not a fuse or a relay. Its something weird and I didnt want to mess with the dealer so I just ran a set of KC's off the bumper with a separate switch.
    #15
  16. lexisdad1201

    lexisdad1201 New Member

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    Ferguson, I have the same headlight issue. I have tested the headlight switch and the DRL module under the dash, with no luck fixing it. I have the wiring diagrams and the only issue left is the multifunction switch or bad wiring somewhere. The DRL output is the same as stock compared to my friends Yukon, so I just use PARK for my low beams and Headlight on for my Brights. Simple and free. If I find a cheap multifunction switch I will try it, but it works this way and no extra switches. I also have the cracked diaphragm on the FPR. I love trying to start her up, lol, but she runs fine once she is started except for small misfires in 2 cylinders at idle from too much fuel from the leaking FPR. I have a new fuel injector setup to throw in her when I have time and it's not so damn hot. Oh, and I just flipped 228k miles last week!
    #16
  17. DAREDEVIL

    DAREDEVIL New Member

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    Mine is a 2500 K Suburban (96), 220+ K miles....i love it ..but i have changes Intake gasket, complete ignition, headlight switch, door handle (inner), electric door locks, fuelpump, tierods, shocks, control arm bushings, brakes, ECM, exhaust, complete AC, some wiring harness, radiator, starter, lights, alternator (to a 140amp), injectors (the complete spider), brake booster (hydr.), got rid of the manifolds and stuck headers on it, chip tuning, cold air intake......and a bunch of small stuff for looks and performance. getting about 14-16 MPG towing or not .....I am HAPPY !!!!

    For wht i have in it , i could not replace it..and that is what counts !!!!

    Btw, parts are easy to find and changing them is not a problem....but when there are electric issues thats when the fun starts..LOL
    #17
  18. FergusonT

    FergusonT New Member

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    I think the last time I researched the headlight problem the best answer I got was the multifunction switch...and that required taking the steering wheel column apart....it basically gave me a good excuse to run some aftermarket KC's.
    #18
  19. thisiscrazy

    thisiscrazy New Member

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    Bought used 99 Burb, 2WD. 125k miles. Repairs done since purchase 6 months ago (yikes!). Knew it needed some stuff, but not Quite this much. Fortunately, bought a warranty that HAS covered most of it.

    "Service Engine" light on. Code said "lean fuel" both banks. Dealer replaced intake gasket (warranty covered, whew!) and dimple (which was superglued - yep, superglued). Light came back on during drive home, plus making intermittant clicking noise coming from center, near floor. Back at dealer now. Saying needs plenum (presumably to stop the clicking) and fuel regulator (r/t engine ilght). Regulator replaced couple hundred miles ago by my mechanic, so I'm suspicious??? Any thoughts??? My personal mechanic (he's not "certified," since warranty requires certified mechanic, am using dealer) suspects "Brake Booster" issue.

    Still needs:
    Daytime Running Lights not working (not a biggie, but wondering if associated with any other electrical problems?)
    Shifter replaced (told that cable is broken)
    Brake pads
    Squeak at L rear wheel - possibly bushing, shocks, ??

    Additional repairs:
    A/C Compressor replaced (a/c stopped working)
    Pittman Arm replaced
    Swaybar & bushing replaced
    Gearbox seal replaced
    Door lock actuator replaced - driver. (Still not working properly - wiring problem suspected??)
    Transmission mount replaced (told it was missing)
    Temperature Control Valve replaced (causing problem w/ heater...I think)
    Motor mount (left) replaced (told it was missing)
    Window switch replaced (right rear)
    Serpentine belt replaced (frayed)
    Window regulator (driver) replaced
    Power steering hose - cracked
    Door handle...of course (right front)

    Hoping there's a "bottom" to the repairs. Clearly previous owner didn't properly maintain. Most stuff has been mentioned here as common issues, so not freaking out. Comments, suggestions?
    #19
  20. ticad

    ticad New Member

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    Reply to phoebeisis' post:

    That's funny I just bought a 1998 Suburban 1500 - 4WD though - mine had 188xxx miles at purchase for the same price. Just over a week of owning and both my wife and I love it. I'm trying to find out how exactly, or as close to exactly, how to remove and erplace the ignition coil to no avail. I have a post with no replies. I guess this part is hard to replace, or my posts are too long to read HAHA. Anyway, I know your post is a few years ago, but it's new to me. Hope your still enjoying your Burb, and if you see this and have any advice for me feel free to enlighten me.
    #20

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