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common problems 1999 Suburban 350 CID 5.7L

Discussion in 'Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)' started by markf1971, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. lexisdad1201

    lexisdad1201 New Member

    I have also seen that if you get a used one at a good price, you can fix the little things fairly easily and without much cost. I check ebay and craigslist for used trim and interior parts. All together I am very happy with my recent purchase and enjoy the room and safety for the wife and kids. I look forward to seeing more responses to this thread.
  2. cyclrcr

    cyclrcr New Member

    Hey all! My first time posting on here!

    I just got my 99 out of the shop for the intake manifold gasket. Hopefully that is the extent of the expensive repairs. LOL. Coolant was disapearing and the plugs were so fouled they caused the dirtributor and rotor to burn out.... so they said the gasket was the cause of the chain reaction of problems. Runs strong now! only 96K on her

    Does anyone else have issues with their power locks?
  3. 1970camaro

    1970camaro New Member

    My 1999 Suburban has given me many a problems, but it does have 255,000 miles on it so it is kinda to be expected. It lost the fuel pump about at about 175,000 and since then it has had 3 of them, the most recent one being the AC delco factory one. The radiator went out at about 175k. The waterpump has been replaced. Both heads have been replaced 2 times. and now it seems like it is having intake manifold gasket problems (yet to be determined). I have had 3 egr valves on it. I am currently going insane because everytime i fix one thing, something else happens almost instantly. Starting to think PCM.
  4. dean

    dean New Member

    just joined the site today. I like my suburban,it like it alot. Practical as car,truck and camper!The engine is real strong and doesn't use oil at 188,000.
    I have done most of the things mentioned above.
    1-Fuel pump needs replaced about every 70,000. I am on #3. I have paid a shop to do this at 900 a crack,but I would like to do this myself next time.Is there a thread here that explains?
    2- Brakes are mooshy..cant seem to correct..but stops adequate. Would not want to tow with it/ I like the economy of replacement parts...I just bought front calipers as $15 each!
    3- there is a plastic manifold in the engine bay on the left side for the heater hoses- be sure you replace this $50 ? part.its easy to replace and when it fails as the palstic cracks ..you lose all your coolant.
    4-intake gaskets were done under warrentee at 80,000 and A buddy of mine and me did the job again at 170,000. Took us a day and a half..hard job.
    5- recently "modified "my catalitc convertors that semed clogged..cut off and reinstalled for a stock look ..if you get my drift. Then I ordered O2 sensors simulators off the web so my dash light is off..really helped the engine..combined with the K&N intake.
    6- starter replace twice
    7- front brake pads replaced about 8-9 times( every 20,000)..backs drums about twice!
  5. FergusonT

    FergusonT New Member 100 Posts

    I have seen many forums complaining of a headlight problem.....daytime running lamps and parking lights work...but when the switch is turned on for regular headlights...nothing except parking lights....I have this problem and Its not a fuse or a relay. Its something weird and I didnt want to mess with the dealer so I just ran a set of KC's off the bumper with a separate switch.
  6. lexisdad1201

    lexisdad1201 New Member

    Ferguson, I have the same headlight issue. I have tested the headlight switch and the DRL module under the dash, with no luck fixing it. I have the wiring diagrams and the only issue left is the multifunction switch or bad wiring somewhere. The DRL output is the same as stock compared to my friends Yukon, so I just use PARK for my low beams and Headlight on for my Brights. Simple and free. If I find a cheap multifunction switch I will try it, but it works this way and no extra switches. I also have the cracked diaphragm on the FPR. I love trying to start her up, lol, but she runs fine once she is started except for small misfires in 2 cylinders at idle from too much fuel from the leaking FPR. I have a new fuel injector setup to throw in her when I have time and it's not so damn hot. Oh, and I just flipped 228k miles last week!
  7. DAREDEVIL

    DAREDEVIL New Member 1000 Posts 100 Posts

    Mine is a 2500 K Suburban (96), 220+ K miles....i love it ..but i have changes Intake gasket, complete ignition, headlight switch, door handle (inner), electric door locks, fuelpump, tierods, shocks, control arm bushings, brakes, ECM, exhaust, complete AC, some wiring harness, radiator, starter, lights, alternator (to a 140amp), injectors (the complete spider), brake booster (hydr.), got rid of the manifolds and stuck headers on it, chip tuning, cold air intake......and a bunch of small stuff for looks and performance. getting about 14-16 MPG towing or not .....I am HAPPY !!!!

    For wht i have in it , i could not replace it..and that is what counts !!!!

    Btw, parts are easy to find and changing them is not a problem....but when there are electric issues thats when the fun starts..LOL
  8. FergusonT

    FergusonT New Member 100 Posts

    I think the last time I researched the headlight problem the best answer I got was the multifunction switch...and that required taking the steering wheel column apart....it basically gave me a good excuse to run some aftermarket KC's.
  9. thisiscrazy

    thisiscrazy New Member

    Bought used 99 Burb, 2WD. 125k miles. Repairs done since purchase 6 months ago (yikes!). Knew it needed some stuff, but not Quite this much. Fortunately, bought a warranty that HAS covered most of it.

    "Service Engine" light on. Code said "lean fuel" both banks. Dealer replaced intake gasket (warranty covered, whew!) and dimple (which was superglued - yep, superglued). Light came back on during drive home, plus making intermittant clicking noise coming from center, near floor. Back at dealer now. Saying needs plenum (presumably to stop the clicking) and fuel regulator (r/t engine ilght). Regulator replaced couple hundred miles ago by my mechanic, so I'm suspicious??? Any thoughts??? My personal mechanic (he's not "certified," since warranty requires certified mechanic, am using dealer) suspects "Brake Booster" issue.

    Still needs:
    Daytime Running Lights not working (not a biggie, but wondering if associated with any other electrical problems?)
    Shifter replaced (told that cable is broken)
    Brake pads
    Squeak at L rear wheel - possibly bushing, shocks, ??

    Additional repairs:
    A/C Compressor replaced (a/c stopped working)
    Pittman Arm replaced
    Swaybar & bushing replaced
    Gearbox seal replaced
    Door lock actuator replaced - driver. (Still not working properly - wiring problem suspected??)
    Transmission mount replaced (told it was missing)
    Temperature Control Valve replaced (causing problem w/ heater...I think)
    Motor mount (left) replaced (told it was missing)
    Window switch replaced (right rear)
    Serpentine belt replaced (frayed)
    Window regulator (driver) replaced
    Power steering hose - cracked
    Door handle...of course (right front)

    Hoping there's a "bottom" to the repairs. Clearly previous owner didn't properly maintain. Most stuff has been mentioned here as common issues, so not freaking out. Comments, suggestions?
  10. ticad

    ticad New Member

    Reply to phoebeisis' post:

    That's funny I just bought a 1998 Suburban 1500 - 4WD though - mine had 188xxx miles at purchase for the same price. Just over a week of owning and both my wife and I love it. I'm trying to find out how exactly, or as close to exactly, how to remove and erplace the ignition coil to no avail. I have a post with no replies. I guess this part is hard to replace, or my posts are too long to read HAHA. Anyway, I know your post is a few years ago, but it's new to me. Hope your still enjoying your Burb, and if you see this and have any advice for me feel free to enlighten me.

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