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confused

Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Gadget Tech' started by Blackmatter, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    I will be building my first bigger system in about two months. I know what head unit and speakers that i want to use, but where i am confused is with the amps. I think i am going to use a 5 channel amp but I have seen the fuse on them range from 1 30amp to 3 35amp also seen them at 1 100amp. This is my issue I am not sure what i will need to upgrade in my truck to handle the extra power draw. I've read the alternator first then battery then capacitor. Then some where i heard that if i do the alternator that will not do anything and i should do the battery first. My truck has the 145 alternator and only the single stock battery. I have a 2011 chevy silverado z71 with tow package. So i guess my questions are at what point will i need to start upgrading stuff and what would be the best order if i need too.
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  2. osgprometheus

    osgprometheus New Member

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    OK... Here is some info we need.

    What deck? (What are you going to use it for? Rock, rap, country, ect.)
    What kind of speakers? How many?
    Are you going to run tweeters and cross overs?
    What brand of amp? Wattage?
    How many subs? What kind? What ohm? How big?
    Are you using it ALL the time, or shot bursts?

    Let us know your plan then we can give you some more info..

    Also.. Is your truck a standard, extended, or crew cab? And what kind of motor in it?
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  3. SurrealOne

    SurrealOne Former Member

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    This x2. We need as much data as you can provide in order to give good feedback.
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  4. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    Ok here is what i am positive on right now. The Head unit Pioneer AVH-8400BH Speakers Massive Audio Rx6 componets 50-250 rms at 4ohms for the front and Rk6 coaxials 50-200 rms at 4ohms. As for the sub and amp not sure yet. I have looked at the kenwood xr-5s soundstream rub5.800 and ref5.1000 massive audio nx-5 (but read some bad things about this one over heating) and power acoustik gt 5-2500. also was looking at dual amp set-ups but figured that would be too much of a pain. As for the sub I was thinking nothing bigger then 600 watt rms again i looked at alot of different brands form alphasonik to kenwood to jl audio.

    ---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:37 PM ----------

    Oh and I mostly listen to classic rock.
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  5. osgprometheus

    osgprometheus New Member

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    How about the cab? Standard, extended, or crew? Be careful on your air space when you buy a subwoofer. Calculate your airspace o you will not get the proper preformance and life out of your subs.

    When you upgrade your system, the first thing I always do is buy a high output alternator and get it re spun by a specialst tighter so it puts out more amperage. Use a compasitor, and possibly deep cycle battery. It sounds like you can get away with that with what you are going to do right now. If you plan on going bigger, you can add another battery to the mix also. ZMake sure you have the proper amp cable so you don't starve the amp for power.
    #5
  6. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    My truck is a crew cab. I never even thought about air space. My concern is that one amp says it takes 3 35amp fuse and say the kenwood xr-5s that takes 2 30 amp fuse. I am pretty sure that most of my 145 amp alternator is going to be used by what is in the truck maybe leaving me like 20% at most so that leaves me with about 29 amps. Unless i am wrong it would already be more then what my alternator is rated for even if i get the kenwood xr-5s.
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  7. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    That Kenwood is a Great Bullet proof amp.. But if you are going to a 600+Watt Sub you will need more. So I would look into 2 amps. If it was me JL Audio / Amps for True RMS power at 11-14.5 Volts. I would upgrade the power and ground wires. Get a Ohio Gen Alt and a Kenick Battery. As for your speakers You showed us a Wide range of power handleing BUT what is the RMS? I'm not upto date on Massive Audio. Have heard some good and some bad things about them.
    #7
  8. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    That is what the Rms is supposed to be for those speakers peak is 500 and 400. I've also looked at a ton of speakers every thing from German Maestro to Audiobahn ( a guy i work with loves them). That was just one i picked because they have such a wide range. I was also think of using a four channel amp and then getting a mono amp and a sub later only because i have a limited amount of funds. I orignaly was not going to change my head unit but decided that it would be better if i did that is going to cost about $750 by the time i get done with the wireing harness and everything. I am looking for good sound well balenced does not have to be competition just good sounding. I also like the kenwood excelon speakers. I know that it is kind of vague and i have been doing a lot of research. If i can build a nice system and not have to shell out $500 for a new alternator that would be great. I have read that you should change the alternator first then battery or cap. Then i called soundstream about one of their amps and the tech guy told me that that amp took a 100 amp in line fuse. I then commented that i would probley have to change my altermator and he said why that would not do anything that i would need a deep cell battery instead.

    ---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

    My thoughts are that i would try to figure out what amp/amps first and then get speakers that will go good with what ever amp/amps i get. My orginal thought was about 4x100 @ 4ohms rms and 600 for the sub either at 2 or 4 ohms
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  9. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    Well I do have to say When I build a system in my own Trucks I build it to Last and Sound Great at any Volume. My last system Lasted over 6 years with out even blowing a tweeter or Amp. And it was USED at times at FULL Volume in the Daytona Beach SUN for 8 hours a day. With the doors open you could hear it up to 75 yards away as clear as day. Not Bright Not Harch. You heard every Beat Highs,Mids and Lows. Yet I could still drive it around town and enjoy some 5.1 Audio inside. Speakers and Amps were JL Audio Headunit and prosecer (spelling) Were Kenwood.. I have heard 98% of the speakers on the market, I have sold about the same. I have seen the Best and heard the Best audio systems ever built.. (For those who remember Richard Clarks Grand Nat) Is there better then JL? Yes But not much and not in the price range.

    Your friend who likes Audiobahn... Tell him to listen to them not just look at the Flame amps and Subs.. Kenwood Higher end Have always been good. Some other speakers to look at for what you listen to Alpine Type R and Focals. The K2's you will be very happy with.

    Caps are a waste of money.. Stop going to Best Buy... Alt and Batt will be fine.. BUT if you were going with that Amp that draws 65-70 Amps. You will be fine (as long as the truck is running) with stock..
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  10. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    Ok Enkeiavalanche This is more then likely what i will do. Head unit Pioneer AVH-8400BH Speakers Kenwood Excelon XR-S17P componets for the front and Kfc-x1730 for the rear Amp the Kenwood xr-5s 80x4 @ 4ohms and Subthump single downfire box with a XR-W10F Kenwood sub. The Amp takes 2 30 amp fuses. What are your thoughts.
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  11. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    I think you will be happy... That is a sealed box right? Tighter bass better for Classic Rock. That amp always had good ratings.. You should be happy..

    I'm a Rock nut and although I have had some killer system I have been pleased with the Bose in my 08.. I'm in my 40's now and it's fine. Sometimes when dome good AC/DC or Matalica comes on I wish I had my old system.. I have about 30 5.1 Music cd/DVD's just sitting in a box now. But Boy do I miss that Clean sound....
    #11
  12. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    I believe it is a sealed box. I am 42 this is my second silverado since 2008. I got a bigger camper and my 08 extended cab wasn't rated high enough to tow it lol. That was the only reason my wife and i got the 2011 one. I have had only a stock non bose system since then and I will be getting a bonus check around july and cann't wait. So do you think i will need to upgrade anything in my truck alternator or get a battery or anything
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012
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  13. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    With the 1 amp and the truck running you should be fine.. upgrading the Power and ground wires would be good to do..
    #13
  14. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    The power and ground wires on the battery and as long as it runs at idle. Do you think upgrading the alternator to a 190 amp one would be advised. Dc power has it for $269
    #14
  15. Enkeiavalanche

    Enkeiavalanche Moderator

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    Use your factory one for now.. It should be fine.. If you add more 12 Volt Acc's later maybe upgrade...
    #15
  16. osgprometheus

    osgprometheus New Member

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    I agree here.

    It sounds like your stock system will handle what you want to do. If you start with multiple amps, then upgrade until then.

    I always upgrade to an Deep cycle battery, but I guess that's because I have an air compressor running my air ride on most of my vehicles with sound.
    #16
  17. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    Multiple amps doesn't mean he would need a bigger alt...total current draw at idle in relation to total current production (from alt.) at idle is the determining factor. This is the following, common, steps for power upgrading


    1st- Big 3 upgrade, DC is a loop (direct current, travels from the negative battery terminal to the positive). Basically, the smallest wire in your system will be what determines the max current your devices receive, if you run 4awg to your amp but your battery is grounded to the chassis with 8awg, your 4awg will only pass the amount of current that the 8awg will allow.

    Think of it this way...take a milk shake, the milk shake is the available current, the person drinking the milk shake is the amplifier drawing power, the straw is the conductor, the harder you suck on the straw, the more power you are demanding, so you wan a bigger straw right? Now put a kink in that straw, your now only getting what that kink will allow, having a big straw all of the sudden doesn't matter...

    2nd- battery battery battery, Enki said it, caps are pointless. Upgrade to an isolated deep cycle battery.

    3rd-alternator, this is the final step, one you don't need, your system is still pretty small, you would do fine with upgrading all your wires and then adding a battery.
    #17
  18. Blackmatter

    Blackmatter New Member

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    Ok thanks I often wondered what the big 3 was. So if I put in a battery isolator I could keep the factory battery for starting and then get say a yellow top to run the amps. Of course this would be if i build a system that draws like 100,000 watts lol.
    Last edited: May 1, 2012
    #18
  19. zigger215

    zigger215 New Member

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    Lol uh, 100,000watt system would need a **** ton of batteries lol and alternators...lots! I compete and my system is about 7,800 watts and I'm running a 410amp alternator and 6 batteries, no caps.

    Big 3...power from alternator to battery, ground from battery to chassis, ground from engine to chassis
    #19
  20. osgprometheus

    osgprometheus New Member

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    LMAO!!! That's very true man. lol

    You would have to be running a shovel in a rock quarry.
    #20

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