crew cab split drive shaft balance/vibration

Discussion in 'GM Powertrain' started by keepemrunnin, Nov 13, 2010.

  1. keepemrunnin

    keepemrunnin New Member

    Have a 2000 GMC Siera 2500 full 4 dr crew cab 5.7L 6.5 foot bed with a split drive shaft that vibrates from 30 to 50 mph. I have taken the shaft to a spicer machine shop/dealer and had them rebalance it but didnt solve the problem at all...within a couple hundred miles it started vibrating and shaking the whole truck again. Obviously this is why they went to the bigger diameter aluminum & fiberglass one piece shafts, but unfortunatley, GM doesnt make the oem shaft for my truck anymore. So I'm wondering do I have a machine shop make me an aluminum one piece shaft (if possible) or what to do. I dont wanna sell the trk just because of a drive shaft but this is seriously hardly driveable from 30-50... PLEASE HELP!!!!!
     
  2. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    Did they replace the Carrier Bearing?? also you may have a problem with the rear diff, which has been known to happen, also how about the U-joints were those replaced? since a frozen Ujoint can cause the same problem, also Ball joints can do that as well.
     
  3. chevybulldog6

    chevybulldog6 Rockstar ROTM Winner 100 Posts

    I would lean more towards the carrier bearing although all of the options murdog said are possibilities.
     
  4. keepemrunnin

    keepemrunnin New Member

    I actually replaced the u joints and center bearing (support bearing as they called it) before i brought it to the machine shop...i haven't been told about the differential having any issues though. Being a 3/4 ton i assumed there's no way that rear end could have any issues unless it was about to granade...but it does have 164,000 miles on her. One thing I failed to mention was my attempt to trouble shoot.. I jacked the trk up from the rear end to get the wheels 6" off the ground and set the cruise on at about 40ish where it seemed to be at its worst and could see the slip joint bouncing up and down. Put the cruise at around 50ish and came out of it. The t-case and rear end of the shaft looked allright to me but then again there was no load on the drive train being jacked off the ground

    ---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------

    wow you guys are awesome...i didnt think i would get a response at all... Really appreciate it!! Is it unheard of to have an aluminum (for light wt) and bigger diameter for durability/strength made by a machine shop? U joints gonna be an issue though?? Sorry it took so long to respond too. Thanks again for any help!!!
     
  5. murdog94

    murdog94 Epic Member 5+ Years 5000 Posts

    We have a shop here in MN and they will make anything you want. as to the U-joints that isnt an issue they can make the ends to your stock size with out an issuse.. but i really doubt its a driveshaft problem, i would look at transfer case (if you have 4wd) or the tranny output shaft and see how worn it is, or take a look at the tailshaft bearing. as to the support bearing ive heard it called different things so i went with the easiest for most to ID..
    And the carrier bearing in the 3/4ton rear axle is just as suceptable to failure as the 1/2 ton rear axle, depending on use.... ALso take a look at the tranny mount! and look for a broken leaf spring, oh and an unbalanced tire can create quite a ruccus or else a bent rim..
    But take a look the splines on the driveshaft first...
     
  6. mfleetwood

    mfleetwood Rockstar 4 Years ROTM Winner 5000 Posts

    Welcome to the Club!!
     
  7. keepemrunnin

    keepemrunnin New Member

    well guys i had the truck looked at and he said the same thing about the carrier bearin(s).. i guess when i read carrier bearing i was thinking support bearing.. so it looks like the next step would be to have the rearend basicly rebuilt.. i also thought that the pinion bearings would have given way first but like i said.. as far as the t-case though (if rearend rebuild doesnt work) just re-bush it or?? I only ask cuz if i replace it with a lower mileage used one how likely is it inevidably going to do the same thing and again thanx again for all your help!
     

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