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Driver Side Window Problem

Discussion in 'Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)' started by ukrkoz, May 3, 2007.

  1. ukrkoz

    ukrkoz Rockstar 100 Posts

    my power window won't slide down. one on the passanger side does fine. when pressed down, switch starts making clicking noise, like as if a relay is going on-off. i removed the switch, cleaned contacts, lubed contacts - same result. this happened about a week ago, then problem went away all by itself. now it's back.
    i can replace anything in it by myself, just need to know what to. sounds like motor gone bad, or maybe lose contact and relay just kicks back.
    please, help with advice.
    2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab.
    thank you

    PS: on the same token, does anyone know how to unstuck a stuck window? i went through car repair manual, it says that window motor has a safety feature preventing it from burning if it takes too much effor to move the window. which that window was going down easy but squeeky slowly up before. now it starts sounding like the click is coming from that safety switch. looks like door to be disassembled over the weekend and guides cleaned and lubed.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2007
  2. ukrkoz

    ukrkoz Rockstar 100 Posts

    Few Days Later

    ok, it fixed itself next day. second time it happens. so, i took the doorpanel off today, cleaned and lubed window guides, ran window up/down few times.
    sounds like motor will go off on me soon, as after 4-5 runs, it slows down and whines louder.
    i scoped few more forums looking for the same problem solutions. appears driver side door is notorious about this. someone mentioned routinely torn motor wires, indeed, for whatever reason they were factory installed wrapped around thick wand of wires in the door, and i could see that insulation already was taking some damage from the door panel. so i fixed that. some owners, quite proudly, mentioned that they had 2 motors go bad in one year.
    well, so far so good. someone needs to come up with a hybrid window lowering mechanism - if motor goes bad or switch or something, then have crank available.
     
  3. Cableguy

    Cableguy Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Welcome Ukrkoz, Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. Looks like you found it mostly. The chafing area where wire is pinching I use silicone grease to keep the wires safe. So repair wire/wires then (use solder and heat shrink tubes) tape up lube wires. Then I would say your just holding off the inevitable (replace P/W motor) It'll fail on a rainy day and you'll be trapped with the damn window down :shocked:

    Good luck, lets us know how you make out.
     
  4. ukrkoz

    ukrkoz Rockstar 100 Posts


    thanks you, larry the cableguy:lol: . i think i got it, it'll run for some time.
    what i do not understand, is why i , person with 11 years of university education, very frugal and practical, would put my 28mpg CR-V, one that does not even know what the word "repairs" means after 100 000 miles on ticker, into garage, and drive that clunking, jerking, gas guzzling hog, that already cost me a transmission switch, this hassle, lubricating slip yoke, kicks like an old mule at low speeds, clunks in that intermittant driveshaft, and all that only at 60K? BECAUSE I ENJOY IT?
    hey, what can i say. i guess, i'm as bad as any other redneck in a row. love the damn vehicle. probably a "keep me busy over the weekend" car, but hell no, i ain't going into nothing smaller from now on. besides, has more features in it than my wifes RX300.
     
  5. Cableguy

    Cableguy Epic Member 5+ Years ROTM Winner 1000 Posts

    Thats the spirit get in there and muck about till ya figure it out. Hey I think I just made a poem. It is fun...but you can sure waste a day away. Mind the "Honey-Do list" though or you'll get yelled at.
     

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