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drum brake

Discussion in 'Lifted & Offroad Suspension' started by countryboy73703, Nov 17, 2009.

  1. countryboy73703

    countryboy73703 Rockstar

    alright so I found out that I have a leak on my back right drum, very slow, so my guess is the seals on the cylinder, so my question being since i've never taking apart a brake drum is.... what am I getting my self into to change these seal? thanks in advance
  2. MrShorty

    MrShorty Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? or, put another way: 10 bolt semi-floater or 14 bolt full floater? The reason I ask is, if it's a 1/2 ton/10 bolt SF, are you sure it's brake fluid and not gear fluid? Leaking gear fluid from the axle seal is a bit different than leaking brake fluid from a brake cylinder.

    For a long time, I haven't felt that drum brakes are all that difficult. A good set of brake tools often helps with the springs and such. Take the drum off of both sides, but only work on one side at a time, so you can use the other side as a reference. I've also found that a good manual (Haynes or Chiltons have always proved adequate for me for doing brakes) helps a lot.

    At some point you will need to know what size brakes you have. Pull the tire (or maybe you can see it through the rim if you are lucky enough) and see what max diameter is stamped into the drum.

    If you do end up changing the wheel cylinder, you will need to bleed the brakes. I could be wrong, but I don't think this will pose too much difficulty, since you should be able to replace it without disrupting the ABS system. To bleed the system thoroughly, though, you'll need to get the right computer system to operate the ABS valves and such to.
  3. MrShorty

    MrShorty Epic Member Staff Member 5+ Years 1000 Posts

    I replace mine when the Utah state safety inspector says they should be replaced. If memory serves that's about 2/32 inch or less.

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