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Electrical Work.

Discussion in 'GM Electrical Tech' started by Conlan Rose, Dec 21, 2012.

  1. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member 1000 Posts

    Very odd; but, I haven't had one apart to look at it (might crawl under the dash tomorrow).

    I assume, the top shaft is the pedal piviot shaft; the rod (you speak of) and the switch are both on the lower shaft. Meaning, the switch and the rod move together. Gotta get under for a look.
  2. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts

    I will try to take pictures tomorrow. I think the 95-98/99 trucks had this system because they needed to integrate the new ABS systems in and such.
  3. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts

    I forgot to take the brake pedal pics, but recently I began my big three upgrade and the truck seems very happy. The voltage gauge now reads 1.5~2 volts higher at temperature than it was reading before.

    Alt lead is 1/0 AWG Knukoncept Fleks Kable which is 100% tinned Oxygen Free Copper
    Fuse box leads are 4 AWG of Knukoncept Fleks
    Terminals are Lynx Made in the USA.
    Cable lugs are from Pico and 100% copper.

    Here are some pics:

    The cable routing
    IMG_20130501_141448_419.jpg IMG_20130501_141452_086.jpg
    More routing and a picture of the big fuse to fuse block cable
    IMG_20130501_141457_208.jpg IMG_20130501_141505_409.jpg
    More of the Aux fuse box.
    IMG_20130501_141511_167.jpg IMG_20130501_141516_415.jpg
    Factory fuse box lead and original battery terminal that was too small.
    IMG_20130501_141526_199.jpg IMG_20130501_141537_192.jpg
    1/0 awg Alternator lead and more routing.
    IMG_20130501_141542_399.jpg IMG_20130501_141548_082.jpg
    Negative terminal which the bolt was upgraded
    IMG_20130501_141553_205.jpg
    More of the battery terminals
    IMG_20130501_175508_313.jpg IMG_20130501_175512_169.jpg IMG_20130501_175516_775.jpg
    Used the factory routing for the factory fuse box lead. Also the new terminals.
    IMG_20130501_175531_239.jpg IMG_20130501_175831_247.jpg

    Need to take more pics with the new terminals installed.

    Attached Files:

  4. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts

    I can't get pictures of the brake switch because it is hidden behind a metal plate. Yesterday I tried to fix my driver power window that wont work and also checked all my DRL components because my DRLs don't work.

    Any Ideas on why either don't work.
  5. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member 1000 Posts

    I doubt if they are related.

    A common problem with the wiring in the driver's door, is the movement at the door hinge. The constant flexing of the wires will cause the odd one to break inside the insulation.
  6. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts

    Makes sense, but then why would I get clicking in the button?
  7. RayVoy

    RayVoy Active Member 1000 Posts

    Missed that, sorry.

    Maybe glass is jammed, maybe motor is seized. Maybe a button problem.

    Can you operate the other window(s) from the driver's door?
  8. Conlan Rose

    Conlan Rose Super Moderator 1000 Posts

    Yes all the other switches work. The switch literally clicks when I hold it down. I see no voltage drop like the other switches when they reach the end of their motion when I keep holding them. Maybe it is the motor.

    Are any components in the door sensitive to hard shocks like slamming the door really hard.

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